Archive for the ‘United Kingdom’ Category

…statue!!!

With the Nessie Statue

With the Nessie Statue

Traveling with John requires a detour every now and then to check out the myths, legends or just plain tacky places of the world such as Roswell, Graceland, The Largest Ball of Twine and now…The Search for Nessie, the Loch Ness Monster. We took the Jacobite Tours which included a boat ride on Loch Ness with stops at Urquhart Castle  and the Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition. The Centre helps debunk the myth of Nessie ~ and the exhibition includes original equipment used over the years in the search for the creature. It ended up being a great tour! Our guide, Kenny, was professional and a wealth of knowledge regarding the history of the area. He spoke about the ties of famous Americans to Scotland including Generals Grant & Lee. Nothing tacky about this tour or the area!

Urquhart Castle viewd from Loch Ness

Urquhart Castle viewed from Loch Ness

Urquhart Cstle Ruins

Urquhart Castle Ruins

Urquhart Castle Spy Holes to the Loch

Urquhart Castle Spy Holes to the Loch

The Gorgeous Grounds of Urquhart Castle

The Gorgeous Grounds of Urquhart Castle

Gatehouse at Urquhart Castle

Gatehouse at Urquhart Castle

Urquhart Castle Cellar

Urquhart Castle Cellar

Despite it being the slow season, not to mention freezing cold and snowing, it was a full tour with about 20 Korean visitors, 3 Danish backpackers, several Brits and another American from Berkeley (she said she was from San Francisco but I’m pretty sure she was from across the bridge). I can’t imagine what it must be like in the summer with all the crowds. I’m so glad we braved the elements and visited during the off-season.

It was interesting to listen to the tales from the Danish backpackers since they came in the day before from Glasgow, our next stop. Much as we hate to say goodbye to beautiful Inverness, it’s time to head south…

Another View from Our Room at Strathness House ~ loved it!

Another View from Our Room at Strathness House ~ loved it!

Thank Goodness for the English Translation

Thank Goodness for the English Translation

Ness River

Ness River

Strathness House and the Church

Strathness House and the Church

Strathness House Hotel

Strathness House Hotel

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Inverness is the furthest north I’ve ever been! Would love to go even farther north into the Shetland Islands but will have to save that for another trip. On our drive to Inverness, we stopped at Blair Castle which just happened to re-open that very day for the spring/summer season. We were cheerfully welcomed by a staff member and then greeted in the parking lot by a friendly, beautiful peacock.

Greeted by a Peacock at Blair Castle

Greeted by a Peacock at Blair Castle

Blair Castle sits on 108 square miles. The grounds are gorgeous with lots of grazing sheep. It’s the seat of the Duke of Atholl of the Murray Clan. The 12th Duke of Atholl actually lives in South Africa but he visits the castle every May to review the Atholl Highlanders, the only private Army in Britain. The castle tower dates back to 1269 but most of the castle has undergone lots of remodeling throughout the years. It was very interesting to visit the 30 rooms. Each room gives another layer of written history but I have to admit I’ve become spoiled and would prefer audio guides for such a large building.  There’s just so much information to cover over 744 years.

Blair Castle under restoration.

Blair Castle under restoration.

Blair Castle Clock Tower

Blair Castle Clock Tower

Blair River on the Blair Castle Grounds

Blair River on the Blair Castle Grounds

Sheep on the Blair Castle grounds

Sheep on the Blair Castle grounds

Blair Castle Ballroom

Blair Castle Ballroom

As we drove into Inverness and to our hotel, we knew we were someplace special. Inverness is a charming town and our hotel was ideally situated along the Ness River. We got in early enough to wander around the river bank and into town. Thankfully the weather was clear. Cold but clear. We were also treated to a beautiful full moon.

View from River of Inverness Castle

View from River of Inverness Castle

Along the Ness River at night

Along the Ness River at night

Inverness Castle Tower
Inverness Castle Tower

Full Moon over Inverness

Full Moon over Inverness

Thank goodness for Tripadvisor reviews leading me to The Strathness House which is an affordable hotel with great service and even better views. They only have 12 rooms and only 8 have views so if you go, book early.

Strathness House, Inverness

Strathness House, Inverness

View from Room at Strathness House, Inverness

View from Room at Strathness House, Inverness

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The Atholl Palace Hotel

The Atholl Palace Hotel

We stayed in Pitlochry which is half way between Edinburgh and Inverness. We encountered a bit more snow on the drive but thankfully it wasn’t enough to make driving any more dangerous. As we drove up to The Atholl Palace Hotel, the hotel loomed high on a snow-covered hill and reminded us of  “The Overlook Hotel” in The Shining.

The Atholl Palace Hotel entrance

The Atholl Palace Hotel entrance

Atholl Palace Hotel Hallway

Atholl Palace Hotel Hallway

Atholl Palace Hotel Lobby

Atholl Palace Hotel Lobby

It seemed more so once we checked in since the lobby is large with lots of seating near fireplaces. All along the walls are photos and memorabilia of the hotel ~ some as far back as it’s opening in the mid 1800s.

In the Basement Museum

In the Basement Museum

Wine and Wifi next to the Fireplace on a snowy night

Wine and Wifi next to the Fireplace on a snowy night

Lots of Period Furniture at The Atholl Palace Hotel

Lots of Period Furniture at The Atholl Palace Hotel

View from our room at Atholl Palace Hotel

View from our room at Atholl Palace Hotel

Snowy Drive to Pitlochry

Snowy Drive to Pitlochry

Room 108 at the Atholl Palace Hotel

Room 108 at the Atholl Palace Hotel

I would definitely stay here again if I’m traveling through this area. The staff is very friendly and efficient and, since there’s only WiFi in the lobby areas, it has a great “get to know your fellow traveler” feel to it. In the morning, John overheard a conversation of a 91-year-old discussing WWII. It’s not everyday we still have an opportunity to get “first hand” stories from those days. Oh, and you can’t beat the Whiskey Welcome at the front desk. For more information about the hotel, click here.

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Coming from the States and driving in the UK is not for the faint of heart. Right side drive car and driving on the left is difficult. Not to mention we’re cheap and opted for manual transmission and no GPS. Having said that John is doing a great job. I may give it a try today but no promises. We did splurge on FULL INSURANCE coverage! Driving from Edinburgh to St Andrews, we must have encountered at least 30 roundabouts.

and yet another roundabout

and yet another roundabout

Glad we made the detour through St. Andrews on our way to Pitlochry. Our first stop was the University of St Andrews which opened in 1413. It’s the 1st University in Scotland and the 3rd oldest in the English-speaking world. The campus is absolutely GORGEOUS. Romantic history: Prince William met Kate Middleton at the University in 2001 while they were both in the Art History department.

University of St Andrews

University of St Andrews

University of St Andrews ~ 600 year anniversary

University of St Andrews ~ 600 year anniversary

University of St Andrews quad

University of St Andrews quad

Gates at the University of St Andrews

Gates at the University of St Andrews

The University has another first ~ The First Martyr of the Scottish Reformation. Patrick Hamilton, age 24, went to the Europe and was influenced by reformation leaders. When he came back to St. Andrews, he began teaching reformation doctrine to the students. He was tried and burned at the stake on campus. On the spot where he was burned, there are the initials PH and it is said that if a student stands on those initials, they will fail to get their degree.

PH for the First Martyr of the Scottish Reformation, Patrick Hamilton

PH for the First Martyr of the Scottish Reformation, Patrick Hamilton

The wind was whipping on the day we visited St Andrews and no where more so than the Golf Course and the nearby cliffs looking out to the North Sea. Still, it was wonderful to be at the birthplace of Golf.

St Andrews ~ where golf was invented.

St Andrews ~ where golf was invented.

Old Course Starter Building

Old Course Starter Building

Also near the golf course is where the famous running scene from “Chariots of Fire” was filmed. For those too young to know the film, it was a 1981 film about two British runners(one Jewish and one a devout Christian) training for the 1924 Olympics. I remember being bored with the film but that could have been because I was so young when I saw it. Might have to re-watch just for the scenery.

Location where "Chariots of Fire" was filmed.

Location where “Chariots of Fire” was filmed.

St Andrews is a beautiful and quaint town with lots of references to golf (street names, pub names, etc). Can’t imagine what it must be like when the crowds of spectators for the British Open show up every year. We were so happy to enjoy it sans the crowds.

Sheer Drop Warning

Sheer Drop Warning

Cliffs of St Andrews ~ the North Sea.

Cliffs of St Andrews ~ the North Sea.

Looking into the University of St Andrews

Looking into the University of St Andrews

St Andrews Abbey Ruins

St Andrews Abbey Ruins

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We’ve had a wonderful time in Edinburgh and there’s such a fun vibe to the city, I could stay for another week but we’re heading to the Highlands. We explored as much as we could in our two days here but there’s so much left to see and do.

Rabbie Burns Bar along the Royal Mile Edinburgh

Rabbie Burns Bar along the Royal Mile Edinburgh

Poppy Wreath in honor of those who have given the ultimate sacrifice

Poppy Wreath in honor of those who have given the ultimate sacrifice

Orange Bike in Ediburgh ~ nice color for a grey day

Orange Bike in Edinburgh ~ nice color for a grey day

Scott Monument

Scott Monument

Tolbooth Tavern ~ along the Royal Mile Edinburgh

Tolbooth Tavern ~ along the Royal Mile Edinburgh

Clock along the Royal Mile in Edinburgh

Clock along the Royal Mile in Edinburgh

Royal Mile, Edinburgh

Royal Mile, Edinburgh

Love seeing Tartan everywhere ~ including on the public bus CCTV screen

Love seeing Tartan everywhere ~ including on the public bus CCTV screen

Passageway along the Royal Mile

Passageway along the Royal Mile

Another plus about Edinburgh is the vast number of restaurants. We had a traditional Scottish Breakfast in the am, Turkish food for lunch, and Japanese food for dinner. All delicious! As we walked down the Royal Mile we realized it was lunchtime and stopped in at Cafe Truva (Turkish Mediterranean food). It was an excellent choice! Good service and yummy food.

Cafe Truva Spinach and Feta wrao ~ delicious!

Cafe Truva Spinach and Feta wrap ~ delicious!

We’re hoping to return in June. Hiking to the top of Arthur’s Seat, the National Museum of Scotland are at the top of the to do list.

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If you’re familiar with “The DaVinci Code”, the plot’s climax was filmed at Rosslyn Chapel. In Dan Brown’s book, he claims the Knights Templar built the chapel even though the Knights had died out 100 years prior to the completion of the Chapel. With or without the Dan Brown hoopla, Rosslyn Chapel is well worth a visit.

The Chapel is located 7 miles west of Edinburgh in Roslin and was built in the 15th century for William St Clair (Third Prince of Orkney). It’s a working church called “Church of St Matthew.” It has an ornately carved stone interior which wasn’t in fashion at the time it was built. The Masonic artwork, which seems to cover every surface of the chapel, is rich in symbolism. There are carvings of flowers, angels, biblical lessons, pagan “Green Man” & other figures associated with both the Freemasons and the Knights Templar. Some researchers believe the symbolism in the carvings suggests Rosslyn Chapel is a Secret Knights Templar site and it may store either the “Holy Grail” or John the Baptist’s head is in the vaults or perhaps in the master’s column.

Our guide told us before “The DaVinci Code” their visitors numbered about 30,000 per year but once the book and movie came out it soared to over 120,000 a year. You can’t buy that kind of PR! The boon in visitors has allowed the chapel to fund much needed restorations. The tour guide also mentioned the number of true believers/conspiracy theorists who visit the chapel increased after the release of the movie ~ including a man, complete with axe, who wanted to look for the treasures in one of the columns.

The Chapel is very impressive and we especially liked seeing the carvings of plants which are indigenous to the Americas but were carved PRIOR to Columbus’ discovery of the New World. Makes you wonder how the carver knew about such things. Rosslyn Chapel is worth the easy half day visit from Edinburgh. We took Bus 15 which runs every 30 minutes from Princess Street and it takes  30 minutes to get to Roslin. Give yourself about 1.5 hours to visit the chapel and grounds. It cost £18 for two adults and our 15-year-old was free. Sidenote: The bus didn’t have an indicator as to the next stop so we told the driver where we were going and he was nice enough to let us know when to hop off.

No Photography was allowed inside and there’s a stone wall around the chapel so it was difficult to get a photo of the entire building. For inside photos and more information on the Chapel, click here.

Rosslyn Chapel Entrance

Rosslyn Chapel Entrance

Rosslyn Chapel Back Door

Rosslyn Chapel Back Door

Rosslyn Chapel

Rosslyn Chapel

Rosslyn Chapel Grave Site

Rosslyn Chapel Grave Site

Old Rosslyn Inn entrance

Old Rosslyn Inn entrance

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The (Sir Walter) Scott Monument is the largest monument in the world dedicated to a writer. The Victorian Gothic style monument is located in Princess Street Gardens and commands attention as its spires jut up to the sky. There are 287 steps to the top and there are four spiral staircases with three landings. The staircases started off with very narrow steps and got progressively more narrow as we got closer to the top. I could feel those stairs in my calves the next day but it was well worth it for the beautiful views. The entrance fee is £3 which works out to about a pence a step.

Scott Monument

Scott Monument

Sir Walter Scott Monument

Sir Walter Scott Monument

Scott Monument Landing

Scott Monument Landing

Scott Monument Spiral Staircase ~ the wider stairs

Scott Monument Spiral Staircase ~ the wider stairs

Near the top of the Monument ~ John almost got stuck due to large backpack

Near the top of the Monument ~ John almost got stuck due to large backpack

View through a window along the spiral staircase

View through a window along the spiral staircase

View from the first landing

View from the first landing

View of Castle from the Scott Monument

View of Castle from the Scott Monument

Needless to say, it was cold and WINDY at the top but, oh the gorgeous views!

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We had a great visit to Holyroodhouse Palace and the Ruins of Holyrood Abbey.  The castle is the Queen’s official residence in Scotland but she only spends about a week each year at Holyrood. The rest of her time in Scotland is spend at her favorite, Balmoral Castle. Would love to visit Balmoral but unfortunately it’s closed this time of year.

Holyroodhouse Palace is located at the bottom of the Royal Mile and is next to the very modern Scottish Parliament Building. There has been a royal presence at Holyroodhouse since 1126 which is when the Abbey was built by King David I of Scotland. The Royal apartments are filled with many beautiful paintings, tapestries, period furniture and other works of art.

I had heard the story about Mary Queen of Scots jealous 2nd husband killing her Italian male secretary at the Palace so it was weird to see the very spot he was murdered . He was stabbed over 50 times ( how “Psycho” of her husband). Mary was held with a pistol pointed at her while she witnessed the entire event. Always some kind of drama with the monarchy.

Photography is not allowed in the palace but I was able to take a few photos around the palace and at the Abbey. It was grey with snow flurries on and off all day. Hoping for a little sunshine tomorrow for our drive to the Highlands.

Entrance to Holyrood Castle

Entrance to Holyrood Palace

At the Entrance of Holyrood Castle

At the Entrance of Holyrood Palace

The Quadrangle at Holyrood Castle

The Quadrangle at Holyrood Palace

Holyrood Palace

Holyrood Palace

Crosses at Holyrood Palace

Crosses at Holyrood Palace

Lamp at Holyrood

Lamp at Holyrood

Ruins of Holyrood Abbey

Ruins of Holyrood Abbey

Ruins of Holyrood Palace

Ruins of Holyrood Palace

Holyrood Abbey Ruins

Holyrood Abbey Ruins

Gorgeous roof at the Ruins

Gorgeous roof at the Ruins

Looking out from the Ruins

Looking out from the Ruins

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We arrived in Edinburgh at about 5:30 pm yesterday after 4.5 hours on the train ride from London. It’s even colder than it was in mid-November and I’m definitely going to need a few more layers of clothing. Edinburgh’s Waverly Station is still one big construction zone and difficult to maneuver through.

We had such a wonderful visit in Edinburgh last fall but didn’t get a chance to see enough of the sights so I put it at the top of our Spring Scotland adventure. On our last visit, we “winged it” with restaurant choices. We walked around until we found a place. I pre-planned a little more for this trip and decided we would splurge on the first night of our holiday. I booked “David Bann” ~ a Vegetarian Restaurant which has great reviews in The Lonely Planet Guidebook and on Tripadvisor. Even the carnivore in the family came away very satisfied with his dinner.  Only glitch was I emailed my reservations, got a confirmation but when we showed up, they didn’t have our name. A little awkward but after a short wait the hostess took us to a booth.

David Bann is elegant and yummy! I agree with the positive reviews. If you’re in Edinburgh and want a delicious meal in a nice atmosphere, it’s located just a couple blocks off of the “Royal Mile” at 56-58 St. Mary’s Street.

David Bann Restaurant

David Bann Restaurant

At David Bann

At David Bann

Olive Starter ~ very yummy

Olive Starter ~ very yummy

Spicy koftas of roasted aubergine, chick pea and toasted cashews

Spicy koftas of roasted aubergine, chick pea and toasted cashews

Stir fried vegetables with udon noodles and smoked tofu.

Stir fried vegetables with udon noodles and smoked tofu.

No one could decide which dish was the best so we all shared our plates...

No one could decide which dish was the best so we all shared our plates…

We did have dessert but it was gobbled up before I remembered to take a photo. The hot pear and passion fruit tart was my favorite.  We walked back to the hotel for a few blocks and I attempted to take night photos but couldn’t keep my hands from shaking due to the cold and wind. None of the shots came out. Maybe today…

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I don’t think of myself as a “foodie” but I’m learning a lot in London. This city has a fantastic array of restaurant and market choices. I may not be an expert when I leave but I know I’ve been spoiled!! Seems around every corner is an opportunity for a great meal or nibbly bits. We happened to walk by Green Valley Market the other day on our way to Hyde Park. After seeing the gorgeous mounds of Baklava in the window display, we couldn’t resist going in. It cost under £5 to buy 300g of assorted Baklava. YUM! If you’re in London (living or visiting), I would highly recommend checking this market out.  In addition to Baklava, they have fresh fruit/vegetables, a deli, other candies, bakery items, etc. It’s located at Edgware and Upper Berkeley close to Marble Arch/Hyde Park.

Baklava at Green Valley Market

Baklava at Green Valley Market

Green Valley Market on Upper Berkeley and Edgware Road

Green Valley Market on Upper Berkeley and Edgware Road

Baklava in the Market Window

Baklava in the Market Window

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