Archive for the ‘United Kingdom’ Category

Last night, we were invited to a reception at the Penthouse of a building just off of Trafalgar Square. The outside of the building is not so pretty but the view is spectacular! Unfortunately, I didn’t have my canon camera but did get a few shots with the compact camera.

View from the Penthouse

View from the Penthouse ~ love all the red buses

Overlooking Trafalgar Square

Overlooking Trafalgar Square

London Eye, Big Ben, Whitehall, Horse Parade

London Eye, Big Ben, Whitehall, Horse Parade

Overlooking Trafalgar Square at Dusk

Overlooking Trafalgar Square at Dusk

Looking out to Westminster and Big Ben

Looking out to Westminster and Big Ben

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The Queen’s Life Guard are mounted troopers of the Household Cavalry. The Horse Guard House is located between Whitehall (off of The Mall) and the Horse Parade ground. There are two mounted troopers on guard outside the Whitehall entrance to the Horse Guard House daily from 10am to 4pm. Thankfully they change out every hour ~ it would be hard to put up with silly tourist getting up in their faces trying to make them respond for much longer than an hour. I love the sign that warns the horses may bite or kick. There are two dismounted sentries on duty until 8pm when the gates are locked.

There is a changing of the Horse Guard Ceremony weekends at 11am and on Sundays at 10am. When the Queen is in London, the Long Guard consists of: 1 Officer, 1 Corporal Major who carries the Standard, 2 Non-Commissioned Officers (NCOs), 1 Trumpeter and 10 Troopers.  When the Queen is out-of-town, it is known as the Short Guard which consists of: 2 NCOs and 10 Troopers. The Ceremony begins with the Old Guard coming through the Arch to the Horse Parade and lining up on the north side. The New Guard rides in from Hyde Park and lines up on the south side. As the New Guard arrives, each Guard carries their Standard and the Trumpeters of both the Old and New Guard sound the Royal Salute.

So glad I finally went to see the Changing of the Horse Guards ceremony yesterday. Very tradional ceremony and what’s not to like about seeing gorgeous horses ~ they are big with lots of spunk. Kudos to the troopers for keeping those big beasts under control for such a long time.

New Guards riding in from Hyde Park

New Guards riding in from Hyde Park

Horse Guards

Horse Guards

Horse Guard Change

Horse Guard Change

Mounted Trooper

Mounted Trooper

Old Guard

Old Guard

Horse Guard Exchange

New Guard on left, Old Guard on right

Horse Guard

Horse Guard

New Guard

New Guard

Trupeter ~ Queen is in London!

Trumpeter ~ Queen is in London!

Spunky Horses

Spunky Horses

Horse Guard leaving for Hyde Park

Horse Guard leaving for Hyde Park

Wolseley on Horse Statue

Wolseley on Horse Statue at the Horse Parade Grounds

London Eye

View of London Eye from the Horse Parade

WWI Memorial across from the Horse Parade

WWI Memorial across from the Horse Parade

Horse Guards with Wolseley Statue in background

Horse Guards with Wolseley Statue in background

Horse Guard

Horse Guard

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Camden Lock Road Sign

Camden Lock Road Sign

It’s hard to resist having a snack once you get to Camden Market. There are so many wonderful choices and many different countries represented. The only problem is deciding on which one to choose. I originally was going to go with the Ala Turko Kebabs:

Ala Turko Kebabs

Ala Turko Kebabs

but then I saw the plantains at Mama’s Jamaican Jerk and couldn’t resist. Turns out the Veggie Wrap was delicious with just the right amount of spices to make it hot but not painful. If you like it really spicy, you can request a dash of their hot sauce.

Mama's Jerk Station

Mama’s Jerk Station

Logan chose the freshly made vegetarian sushi. I so wanted to taste it but didn’t think it would go with my spicy meal.

Sushi Made Fresh

Sushi Made Fresh

John had the pulled pork and thought it was very tasty:

Pulled Pork

Pulled Pork

Not only did we each have delicious food, we were thoroughly entertained by people-watching as well as boat watching.

Photo Shoot in Progress at Camden Market

Photo Shoot in Progress at Camden Market

Lock Broken ~ Boat Backing Up

Lock Broken ~ Boat Backing Up

Original Keystone of the Old Bridge (circa 1815)

Original Keystone of the Old Bridge (circa 1815)

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Bridge Arch Along the Canal

On Sunday, we decided to continue along the Regents Canal trail ~ this time heading for Camden Market. I’ve been to Camden Market before (click here) but instead of taking the bus, we walked through Regents Park and along the canal. Regents Park fields were full of the big boys playing Football whereas on Saturday it’s the kids’ leagues on the field. Another example of active and fit Londoners.

 

Blow Up Bridge

Blow Up Bridge

There’s a story behind every bridge and the “Blow-Up” bridge was blown up in 1874 by the boat “Tilbury” which was carrying gunpowder. It demolished the bridge when it exploded, killing three people. When the bridge was rebuilt, the pillars were turned so the smooth side faced out for the boats towing ropes. You can see the ropes groves on both sides of the pillars.

Here’s a bit of what we saw along the way to Camden Market:

Floating Restaurant on Regents Canal

Floating Restaurant on Regents Canal

The blue sky came out for a hot minute:

Church and Directional Signs along Regents Canal

Church and Directional Signs along Regents Canal

Church Window

Church Window

Manor Works Along the Canal

Manor Works Along the Canal

Cow on Balcony of Canal House

Cow on Balcony of Canal House

Ducks on a Sinking Boat

Ducks on a Sinking Boat

Boat Landing for the Zoo

Boat Landing for the Zoo

Along Regents Canal near Camden Market

Pirate Castle near Camden Market

Pirate Castle near Camden Market

Bridge Over the Canal

Bridge Over the Canal

Camden Lock

Camden Lock

We enjoyed the beautiful day and I plan to walk through Regents Park frequently throughout spring and summer. The flowers are just starting to bloom and I can tell it’s going to be absolutely gorgeous in a few short weeks. Time to get the allergy medicine ready!

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Took a wonderful early morning four mile walk today. It was a little chilly cold but not raining so I’m not complaining. We started out at the Paddington Basin of the Regents Canal near Edgware Road and walked towards Little Venice ~ an especially tranquil and pretty part of London.

Near Edgeware Road and Paddington Train Station.

Paddington Basin ~ Blue Cylinder Footbridge

We came across the realistic looking “commuter” statue:

JP with Commuter

JP with Commuter

Regents Canal is beautiful year round ~ even on a cold, grey winter’s day. The cloudy morning seemed to make any type of color pop and I especially liked the vibrant blue bridges as a contrast to the grey weather.

Little Venice ~ Blue Bridge

Little Venice ~ Blue Bridge

Little Venice Blue Bridge II

Little Venice Blue Bridge II

Little Venice ~ Along the Canal

Little Venice ~ Along the Canal

Skull on Canal Boat

Skull on Canal Boat

Lionhardt Canal Boat

Lionheart Canal Boat

Another Blue Bridge Along the Canal

Another Blue Bridge Along the Canal

There was a definite chill in the air but I noticed a few hints of spring along the way. Gave me hope that warmer weather is on its way.

Another Hint of Spring ~ Daffodils

Hint of Spring ~ Daffodils

Here are my duck and dog photos:

Bird in Water

Bird in Water

Birds in the Canal

Bird in the Canal

Five Guys and a Girl

Five Guys and a Girl

Double Dating Ducks

Double Dating Ducks

A Boy and His Dog

A Boy and His Dog

Another Boy and His Dog

Another Boy and His Dog

Shaggy Dog

Shaggy Dog

London has a lot of fit people. No matter what time of day or night I go out, I see walkers, runners or cyclists. Although I’m usually reluctant about taking photos of people, I’ve noticed athletes don’t seem to have a problem with me taking their photo. Can’t blame them for wanting to show off their fit bodies. One woman ran by me and actually asked if I wanted her in the photo. She was ready to pose.

Runners, Cyclists and Walkers along Regents Canal

Runners, Cyclists and Walkers along Regents Canal

Cyclist Along the Canal

Cyclist Along the Canal

Waiting at the Stop Light

Waiting at the Stop Light

Wonder if any of those runners/cyclists rewarded themselves with a pastry from Le Pain de Quotidien like I did!

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London: View from The Shard

London has the tallest building in Western Europe ~ The Shard, the masterpiece of architect Renzo Piano. It rises to 1016 feet (309.6m) high.

Looking up at The Shard from London Bridge Tube Station

Looking up at The Shard from London Bridge Tube Station

The building is not without controversy among some Londoners ~ many despise the avant-garde style architecture. Much like they disapprove of the other modern buildings in London such as City Hall (aka Darth Vader Helmet) and the Gherkin. While the modern buildings are shunned in many European cities such as Paris and Vienna, London has embraced newer architectural styles which co-exist and compliment the historic buildings. I wouldn’t want to see a New York style skyline develop in London but one or two of these buildings are interesting and thought-provoking.

The Shard and Young's Pub (circa 1831)

The Shard and Young’s Pub (circa 1831)

The Shard consists of office space, the Shangri-la Hotel (floors 34-52), luxury residences each with 360° views (floors 53 to 65), and observation decks at levels 69 and 74 (about 800 feet). The additional 15 levels to the top consist of the spire. Interestingly, 95% of the construction material is recycled. The majority stockholder of the Shard is the State of Qatar. Seems Qatar is investing quite a bit in London’s commercial real estate market. They purchased the US Embassy and the Embassy will be relocating in 2016/2017 to a more modern and secure building.

Today was the second day The Shard was open to the public and we were happy to be heading up to the top at 9am. I bought my tickets over a month ago ~ took a chance we would have decent weather and we did! Although the sunny skies were beautiful and we had unimpeded views, a little cloud cover would have helped beat the glare on the windows.  Not only was London on view but many of us were fascinated with the workmen rapelling at the top of the building. Not sure exactly what they were doing but it’s not a job I would do.

Workers at the top of the Shard

Workers at the top of the Shard

I enjoyed my morning at the top of The Shard and marveled at the gorgeous views. To book tickets, which are £24.95 for an adult and £18.95 for a child, click here. We went during the first time slot because I’m adverse to large crowds but photo opportunities would probably better when the sun is overhead so you don’t get a glare on the windows.

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Despite the rain, we revisited the National Portrait Gallery and by the time we got there, it was full-on sunshine. Such is London weather. I especially love puddles in Trafalgar Square.

The National Gallery ~ after the rains.

The National Gallery ~ after the rains.

This was my second visit to the Portrait Gallery and I enjoyed it just as much as my first visit. Rather than being overwhelmed with the vastness of the collections, I limited myself to one section. Last time, The Tudors, this time it was the late 18th century and 19th Century. The Gallery is very though provoking and the 19th century produced a fascinating group of people. The painters are outstanding but in this Gallery, it’s more about the “sitters” and putting a face to the names of history.

Entrance to The National Portrait Gallery

Entrance to The National Portrait Gallery

Some of my favorites:

The Gallery has the only known likeness of Jane Austen, a small (no bigger than the size of a small postcard) sketch by her sister, Cassandra. Click here to see.

Mary Wollstonecraft, seen here, is considered a founder of British feminism. She was also a member of a radical intellectual group based in London that included Thomas Paine and her future husband William Godwin. Across from her portrait is the portrait of her daughter, Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley, seen here, who wrote “Frankenstein” which is considered one of the best gothic novels in the English language.

After viewing portraits of people such as: Edward Jenner ~ inventor of the smallpox vaccination,  Thomas Stamford Bingley Raffles ~ Explorer, Colonial governor, zoologist, part of the Anti-Slavery movement and the namesake of the Raffles Hotels, John Soane ~ whose house/museum I just visited last week, Chevalier D’eon ~ diplomat, spy and transvestite (now there’s a story!), I want to research more about their lives. So engaging!

I highly recommend visiting the portrait gallery if you enjoy looking into the eyes of those who made history.

We wandered across the street to The Crypt Restaurant, located in the basement of the St Martin in the Field church. It was originally recommended by a fellow blogger,  and it was a very yummy and inexpensive experience. I had the veggie lunch with roasted vegetable goulash, baked potato and a side salad while John had roasted pork with slaw and a stuffed pepper all for under £18.

Entrance to the Crypt Restaurant

Entrance to the Crypt Restaurant

Inside the Crypt restaurant

Inside the Crypt restaurant

Floor of the Crypt Restaurant ~ no doubt, it was definitely a crypt

Floor of the Crypt Restaurant ~ no doubt, it was definitely a crypt

Roasted Pork lunch special

Roasted Pork lunch special

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We’re almost to the half way point of our living in London adventure & I already know I won’t want to leave this dynamic, exciting city. I feel like I finally have everything in place regarding the day-to-day living (utilities, banking, transportation) so now it’s all about exploring the city.

Our list of things to see & do in London, not to mention weekend trips outside of the city, seems to be growing rather than getting smaller ~ we keep getting wonderful suggestions. With 26 weeks left to go, it’s time to get serious about prioritizing. Problem is, I want to see it ALL! And sometimes I want to go back to the same place for a second look.

Yesterday, we went to The National Portrait Gallery. It’s located at St Martin’s Place, just off Trafalgar Square & behind the National Gallery on the right. There’s no entrance fee but I did rent the audio guide which is £3. The Gallery is set-up according to the year the painting was done,beginning with the Early Tudor period (1485). I loved the older portraits through to 1901, but was less interested in the more contemporary portraits. Somehow I missed the turn into several of the early 19th century rooms and didn’t realize it until I reviewed the gallery map when I got home. I missed the portrait of Jane Austen so I’m already planning a return trip.

This past Friday, the first official portrait of the Duchess of Cambridge was unveiled and has garnered a lot of strong opinions from the public. Seeing it up close and in person, my thoughts were that the artist put her in an awkward position. How do you tell a famous, talented artist you don’t like his portrait of yourself? If she complained, would the press skewer her for being vain? I’ve never seen Kate Middleton in person but the portrait showed dark circles and bags under her eyes which made her look much older than thirty. Or of a person who partied a little too hard the night before. Personally, I think it’s a poor portrayal of a vivacious, beautiful young woman and doesn’t capture her true essence for future generations.  Maybe the Duke and Duchess are happy with the “realistic” portrait of her and it really is only their opinion that matters but I can’t help but think there aren’t many options for them once the painting is completed.

It was early when we took the bus to The Portrait Gallery. We hopped off at the Charing Cross stop which is around the corner from Trafalgar Square and the Gallery. Early mornings in winter are proving to be the best time to see London without the large crowds.

View of Big Ben from Trafalgar Square

View of Big Ben from Trafalgar Square

Regents Street ~ heading toward Piccadilly Circus

Regents Street ~ heading toward Piccadilly Circus

Regents Street

Regents Street

Theater Royal Haymarket

Theater Royal Haymarket

Trafalgar Square Fountain

Trafalgar Square Fountain

Fountain in Trafalgar Square

Fountain in Trafalgar Square

The National Gallery

The National Gallery

Rocking Boy still on the 4th Plinth

Golden Boy still on the 4th Plinth

Lion at Trafalgar Square

Lion at Trafalgar Square

Leaving the Gallery, we walked around the corner toward Leicester square and finally made it to Wagamama ~ the portion sizes are huge and there are lots of vegetarian choices. I say finally because several friends recommended the restaurant chain to us before we left the states.

Wagamamas at Leicester Square

Wagamama at Leicester Square

Another reason I’m so happy living in London is, despite it’s size, it feels very safe. In the last few weeks, my daughter has been testing the honesty of her fellow Londoners. She left her phone on the tube a couple of weeks ago and  last week, she accidentally dropped her wallet. Thankfully, both items were found by nice gentlemen who contacted us via my phone. I’m listed as Mum in her contacts and as the “emergency contact” in her wallet. The man called me from Logan’s phone and I heard a deep voice of a grown man rather than my sweet girl on the other end. I’m sure he heard my confusion panic when I spoke because he quickly explained he found the phone on the tube. We’re very thankful for the kindness of others.

As I look at my London list and all my London guidebooks, I can’t help but agree with the quote:

“When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life……for there is in London all that life can afford.”- Dr Samuel Johnson, 1777

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When I lived in DC, I met a very nice British couple and when I invited them to a party at our house (a St Patrick’s Day party no less), the husband said “I’ll be in Blighty”.  At the time, I had no idea what Blighty meant and so I googled it.  Turns out it’s the name for Britain which was originally used by British Soldiers stationed in India who were trying to say bilāyatī (meaning Britain).

We’re back in Blighty after our wonderful week in Germany. Germany is so beautiful and what’s not to love: beer, no speed limit on the autobahn, lots of green open spaces, castles, snowy alps, beautiful cities and everything is very clean.  Although my German language skills are lacking, I did remember the most important phrase “Weißwein ~ trocken, bitte”

Having lived in Germany for many years, there are several cultural behaviors I’ve observed that still make me chuckle.  Just as I know people chuckle (or worse) when I commit typical American actions. Germans, for the most part, don’t have a lot of concern for personal space and I have a need for more personal space than most people.  It took me awhile to get use to that aspect of living in Germany.  The other is standing in line ~ not something most Germans do willingly.  I learned early on to guard my spot in line ~ no daylight allowed between me and the person in front of me.  Once I had an older woman in the Aldi store bump me with her grocery cart from behind.  I think she was hoping I’d step out of line so she could jump ahead, but after the third bump, without looking back, I put my foot on the front bottom part of her cart and pushed as hard as I could.  Finally, she stopped bumping me with that blasted cart.

The other day, when we got to the Easy Jet check-in counter at the Munich airport, the desk wasn’t open yet but a line was already forming.  Logan and I left John with the luggage (3 bags) and we went to get juice.  We were gone about 5 minutes and came back to see the desk was open but John was further back in the line than when we left him.  When I asked John what happened, he laughed and said he was too slow moving the bags forward so people just moved in front of him rather than wait until he moved the bags.  Never would that happen in the UK where queueing is an art form and rigidly adhered to ~ if someone dares to jump the line, they’ll no doubt be chastised.

I make these observations, not as a critique of the Germans, but because the customary actions made us feel even more comfortable being back there.  Just as we feel comfortable being back in Blighty where we know what’s the expected behavior.  Or as the saying goes “When in Rome…”

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Hampton Court, UK

A year in London allows me to visit places not necessarily on every tourist agenda but this week I visited a location at the top of most “what to do in London” lists:  Hampton Court .  A definite must see!

Hampton Court is an easy 30 minute train ride from London’s Waterloo station (round trip fare cost less than £10).  From the train station, you walk over the bridge and in about five minutes, you’re at the entrance to Hampton Court.  You could take a boat on the Thames from Westminster Pier but it takes four hours so I would suggest that on a warm summer day and then take the train back to London.

Hampton Court

There are beautiful gates at the entrance:

Hampton Court Entrance

Originally, Hampton Court was built by Cardinal Wolsey, beginning in 1514, when he was Henry VIII’s Lord Chancellor.  His relationship with the king soured and , by 1525, Henry VIII took over Hampton Court as a Royal Residence.  The entrance fee is £ 16.95.  Once you’re in, there are free costumed guided tours of the State Rooms and there are free audio guides.  We opted for the audio guides so we could go at our own pace.

Hampton Court I

Cardinal Wolsey’s Rooms and the Renaissance Picture Gallery are used to showcase 16th and early 17th century paintings from the Royal Collection. The Royal Chapel was built by the Cardinal and is still in use ~almost 500 years!  It’s a gorgeous chapel (no photos allowed) with a vaulted ceiling.  The Chapel has been changed a little throughout the years but it’s been an active church the entire time.  There is a King James bible, commissioned in 1611 by King James I, still in use today.

The Clock in Clock Court:

Hampton Court Clock Courtyard

A lot of Henry VIII’s palace was lost during the reign of King William III and Queen Mary II. They hired Christopher Wren to rebuild the palace.  We walked through William III’s apartments, making sure we looked up in every room because the palace ceilings are beautiful:

Hampton Court Williams bedroom

The view from William III’s apartments to the gardens:

Hampton Court Gardens

…and the King’s really private room.

Hampton Court Williams toilet

King Henry VIII’s Great Hall:

Hampton Court Great Hall

Where the King and Queen sat when they ate in the Great Hall:

Hampton Court Great Hall King and Queen seating

Decorated ceiling in the Great Hall:

Ceiling in the Great Hall

Fountain Court:

Hampton Court Green Courtyard

Hampton Court Hallway

Pretty Christmas Trees decorating the windows outside the Royal Chapel:

Hampton Court Christmas Trees

The Henry VIII kitchens were fascinating.  It amazes me how much food was cooked/produced for the 600 + people in the court. The enormous fireplace in the kitchens:

Hampton Court Fireplace

One of the best parts of our visit was we had the place almost to ourselves.  It was a rainy, cold day so close to Christmas and there were no school field trips. I can imagine how beautiful the gardens and courtyards must be during the the spring. We also passed on checking out the Maze and the tennis courts so I will have to make a return trip before we leave and will take Logan with me.

Hampton Court II

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