Scotland: St. Andrews

Coming from the States and driving in the UK is not for the faint of heart. Right side drive car and driving on the left is difficult. Not to mention we’re cheap and opted for manual transmission and no GPS. Having said that John is doing a great job. I may give it a try today but no promises. We did splurge on FULL INSURANCE coverage! Driving from Edinburgh to St Andrews, we must have encountered at least 30 roundabouts.

and yet another roundabout

and yet another roundabout

Glad we made the detour through St. Andrews on our way to Pitlochry. Our first stop was the University of St Andrews which opened in 1413. It’s the 1st University in Scotland and the 3rd oldest in the English-speaking world. The campus is absolutely GORGEOUS. Romantic history: Prince William met Kate Middleton at the University in 2001 while they were both in the Art History department.

University of St Andrews

University of St Andrews

University of St Andrews ~ 600 year anniversary

University of St Andrews ~ 600 year anniversary

University of St Andrews quad

University of St Andrews quad

Gates at the University of St Andrews

Gates at the University of St Andrews

The University has another first ~ The First Martyr of the Scottish Reformation. Patrick Hamilton, age 24, went to the Europe and was influenced by reformation leaders. When he came back to St. Andrews, he began teaching reformation doctrine to the students. He was tried and burned at the stake on campus. On the spot where he was burned, there are the initials PH and it is said that if a student stands on those initials, they will fail to get their degree.

PH for the First Martyr of the Scottish Reformation, Patrick Hamilton

PH for the First Martyr of the Scottish Reformation, Patrick Hamilton

The wind was whipping on the day we visited St Andrews and no where more so than the Golf Course and the nearby cliffs looking out to the North Sea. Still, it was wonderful to be at the birthplace of Golf.

St Andrews ~ where golf was invented.

St Andrews ~ where golf was invented.

Old Course Starter Building

Old Course Starter Building

Also near the golf course is where the famous running scene from “Chariots of Fire” was filmed. For those too young to know the film, it was a 1981 film about two British runners(one Jewish and one a devout Christian) training for the 1924 Olympics. I remember being bored with the film but that could have been because I was so young when I saw it. Might have to re-watch just for the scenery.

Location where "Chariots of Fire" was filmed.

Location where “Chariots of Fire” was filmed.

St Andrews is a beautiful and quaint town with lots of references to golf (street names, pub names, etc). Can’t imagine what it must be like when the crowds of spectators for the British Open show up every year. We were so happy to enjoy it sans the crowds.

Sheer Drop Warning

Sheer Drop Warning

Cliffs of St Andrews ~ the North Sea.

Cliffs of St Andrews ~ the North Sea.

Looking into the University of St Andrews

Looking into the University of St Andrews

St Andrews Abbey Ruins

St Andrews Abbey Ruins

Edinburgh: Wrap-up

We’ve had a wonderful time in Edinburgh and there’s such a fun vibe to the city, I could stay for another week but we’re heading to the Highlands. We explored as much as we could in our two days here but there’s so much left to see and do.

Rabbie Burns Bar along the Royal Mile Edinburgh

Rabbie Burns Bar along the Royal Mile Edinburgh

Poppy Wreath in honor of those who have given the ultimate sacrifice

Poppy Wreath in honor of those who have given the ultimate sacrifice

Orange Bike in Ediburgh ~ nice color for a grey day

Orange Bike in Edinburgh ~ nice color for a grey day

Scott Monument

Scott Monument

Tolbooth Tavern ~ along the Royal Mile Edinburgh

Tolbooth Tavern ~ along the Royal Mile Edinburgh

Clock along the Royal Mile in Edinburgh

Clock along the Royal Mile in Edinburgh

Royal Mile, Edinburgh

Royal Mile, Edinburgh

Love seeing Tartan everywhere ~ including on the public bus CCTV screen

Love seeing Tartan everywhere ~ including on the public bus CCTV screen

Passageway along the Royal Mile

Passageway along the Royal Mile

Another plus about Edinburgh is the vast number of restaurants. We had a traditional Scottish Breakfast in the am, Turkish food for lunch, and Japanese food for dinner. All delicious! As we walked down the Royal Mile we realized it was lunchtime and stopped in at Cafe Truva (Turkish Mediterranean food). It was an excellent choice! Good service and yummy food.

Cafe Truva Spinach and Feta wrao ~ delicious!

Cafe Truva Spinach and Feta wrap ~ delicious!

We’re hoping to return in June. Hiking to the top of Arthur’s Seat, the National Museum of Scotland are at the top of the to do list.

Edinburgh: Rosslyn Chapel

If you’re familiar with “The DaVinci Code”, the plot’s climax was filmed at Rosslyn Chapel. In Dan Brown’s book, he claims the Knights Templar built the chapel even though the Knights had died out 100 years prior to the completion of the Chapel. With or without the Dan Brown hoopla, Rosslyn Chapel is well worth a visit.

The Chapel is located 7 miles west of Edinburgh in Roslin and was built in the 15th century for William St Clair (Third Prince of Orkney). It’s a working church called “Church of St Matthew.” It has an ornately carved stone interior which wasn’t in fashion at the time it was built. The Masonic artwork, which seems to cover every surface of the chapel, is rich in symbolism. There are carvings of flowers, angels, biblical lessons, pagan “Green Man” & other figures associated with both the Freemasons and the Knights Templar. Some researchers believe the symbolism in the carvings suggests Rosslyn Chapel is a Secret Knights Templar site and it may store either the “Holy Grail” or John the Baptist’s head is in the vaults or perhaps in the master’s column.

Our guide told us before “The DaVinci Code” their visitors numbered about 30,000 per year but once the book and movie came out it soared to over 120,000 a year. You can’t buy that kind of PR! The boon in visitors has allowed the chapel to fund much needed restorations. The tour guide also mentioned the number of true believers/conspiracy theorists who visit the chapel increased after the release of the movie ~ including a man, complete with axe, who wanted to look for the treasures in one of the columns.

The Chapel is very impressive and we especially liked seeing the carvings of plants which are indigenous to the Americas but were carved PRIOR to Columbus’ discovery of the New World. Makes you wonder how the carver knew about such things. Rosslyn Chapel is worth the easy half day visit from Edinburgh. We took Bus 15 which runs every 30 minutes from Princess Street and it takes  30 minutes to get to Roslin. Give yourself about 1.5 hours to visit the chapel and grounds. It cost £18 for two adults and our 15-year-old was free. Sidenote: The bus didn’t have an indicator as to the next stop so we told the driver where we were going and he was nice enough to let us know when to hop off.

No Photography was allowed inside and there’s a stone wall around the chapel so it was difficult to get a photo of the entire building. For inside photos and more information on the Chapel, click here.

Rosslyn Chapel Entrance

Rosslyn Chapel Entrance

Rosslyn Chapel Back Door

Rosslyn Chapel Back Door

Rosslyn Chapel

Rosslyn Chapel

Rosslyn Chapel Grave Site

Rosslyn Chapel Grave Site

Old Rosslyn Inn entrance

Old Rosslyn Inn entrance

Edinburgh: Scott Monument

The (Sir Walter) Scott Monument is the largest monument in the world dedicated to a writer. The Victorian Gothic style monument is located in Princess Street Gardens and commands attention as its spires jut up to the sky. There are 287 steps to the top and there are four spiral staircases with three landings. The staircases started off with very narrow steps and got progressively more narrow as we got closer to the top. I could feel those stairs in my calves the next day but it was well worth it for the beautiful views. The entrance fee is £3 which works out to about a pence a step.

Scott Monument

Scott Monument

Sir Walter Scott Monument

Sir Walter Scott Monument

Scott Monument Landing

Scott Monument Landing

Scott Monument Spiral Staircase ~ the wider stairs

Scott Monument Spiral Staircase ~ the wider stairs

Near the top of the Monument ~ John almost got stuck due to large backpack

Near the top of the Monument ~ John almost got stuck due to large backpack

View through a window along the spiral staircase

View through a window along the spiral staircase

View from the first landing

View from the first landing

View of Castle from the Scott Monument

View of Castle from the Scott Monument

Needless to say, it was cold and WINDY at the top but, oh the gorgeous views!

We had a great visit to Holyroodhouse Palace and the Ruins of Holyrood Abbey.  The castle is the Queen’s official residence in Scotland but she only spends about a week each year at Holyrood. The rest of her time in Scotland is spend at her favorite, Balmoral Castle. Would love to visit Balmoral but unfortunately it’s closed this time of year.

Holyroodhouse Palace is located at the bottom of the Royal Mile and is next to the very modern Scottish Parliament Building. There has been a royal presence at Holyroodhouse since 1126 which is when the Abbey was built by King David I of Scotland. The Royal apartments are filled with many beautiful paintings, tapestries, period furniture and other works of art.

I had heard the story about Mary Queen of Scots jealous 2nd husband killing her Italian male secretary at the Palace so it was weird to see the very spot he was murdered . He was stabbed over 50 times ( how “Psycho” of her husband). Mary was held with a pistol pointed at her while she witnessed the entire event. Always some kind of drama with the monarchy.

Photography is not allowed in the palace but I was able to take a few photos around the palace and at the Abbey. It was grey with snow flurries on and off all day. Hoping for a little sunshine tomorrow for our drive to the Highlands.

Entrance to Holyrood Castle

Entrance to Holyrood Palace

At the Entrance of Holyrood Castle

At the Entrance of Holyrood Palace

The Quadrangle at Holyrood Castle

The Quadrangle at Holyrood Palace

Holyrood Palace

Holyrood Palace

Crosses at Holyrood Palace

Crosses at Holyrood Palace

Lamp at Holyrood

Lamp at Holyrood

Ruins of Holyrood Abbey

Ruins of Holyrood Abbey

Ruins of Holyrood Palace

Ruins of Holyrood Palace

Holyrood Abbey Ruins

Holyrood Abbey Ruins

Gorgeous roof at the Ruins

Gorgeous roof at the Ruins

Looking out from the Ruins

Looking out from the Ruins

Edinburgh: Return Visit

We arrived in Edinburgh at about 5:30 pm yesterday after 4.5 hours on the train ride from London. It’s even colder than it was in mid-November and I’m definitely going to need a few more layers of clothing. Edinburgh’s Waverly Station is still one big construction zone and difficult to maneuver through.

We had such a wonderful visit in Edinburgh last fall but didn’t get a chance to see enough of the sights so I put it at the top of our Spring Scotland adventure. On our last visit, we “winged it” with restaurant choices. We walked around until we found a place. I pre-planned a little more for this trip and decided we would splurge on the first night of our holiday. I booked “David Bann” ~ a Vegetarian Restaurant which has great reviews in The Lonely Planet Guidebook and on Tripadvisor. Even the carnivore in the family came away very satisfied with his dinner.  Only glitch was I emailed my reservations, got a confirmation but when we showed up, they didn’t have our name. A little awkward but after a short wait the hostess took us to a booth.

David Bann is elegant and yummy! I agree with the positive reviews. If you’re in Edinburgh and want a delicious meal in a nice atmosphere, it’s located just a couple blocks off of the “Royal Mile” at 56-58 St. Mary’s Street.

David Bann Restaurant

David Bann Restaurant

At David Bann

At David Bann

Olive Starter ~ very yummy

Olive Starter ~ very yummy

Spicy koftas of roasted aubergine, chick pea and toasted cashews

Spicy koftas of roasted aubergine, chick pea and toasted cashews

Stir fried vegetables with udon noodles and smoked tofu.

Stir fried vegetables with udon noodles and smoked tofu.

No one could decide which dish was the best so we all shared our plates...

No one could decide which dish was the best so we all shared our plates…

We did have dessert but it was gobbled up before I remembered to take a photo. The hot pear and passion fruit tart was my favorite.  We walked back to the hotel for a few blocks and I attempted to take night photos but couldn’t keep my hands from shaking due to the cold and wind. None of the shots came out. Maybe today…

London: Markets

I don’t think of myself as a “foodie” but I’m learning a lot in London. This city has a fantastic array of restaurant and market choices. I may not be an expert when I leave but I know I’ve been spoiled!! Seems around every corner is an opportunity for a great meal or nibbly bits. We happened to walk by Green Valley Market the other day on our way to Hyde Park. After seeing the gorgeous mounds of Baklava in the window display, we couldn’t resist going in. It cost under £5 to buy 300g of assorted Baklava. YUM! If you’re in London (living or visiting), I would highly recommend checking this market out.  In addition to Baklava, they have fresh fruit/vegetables, a deli, other candies, bakery items, etc. It’s located at Edgware and Upper Berkeley close to Marble Arch/Hyde Park.

Baklava at Green Valley Market

Baklava at Green Valley Market

Green Valley Market on Upper Berkeley and Edgware Road

Green Valley Market on Upper Berkeley and Edgware Road

Baklava in the Market Window

Baklava in the Market Window

London: Unique View

Last night, we were invited to a reception at the Penthouse of a building just off of Trafalgar Square. The outside of the building is not so pretty but the view is spectacular! Unfortunately, I didn’t have my canon camera but did get a few shots with the compact camera.

View from the Penthouse

View from the Penthouse ~ love all the red buses

Overlooking Trafalgar Square

Overlooking Trafalgar Square

London Eye, Big Ben, Whitehall, Horse Parade

London Eye, Big Ben, Whitehall, Horse Parade

Overlooking Trafalgar Square at Dusk

Overlooking Trafalgar Square at Dusk

Looking out to Westminster and Big Ben

Looking out to Westminster and Big Ben

The Queen’s Life Guard are mounted troopers of the Household Cavalry. The Horse Guard House is located between Whitehall (off of The Mall) and the Horse Parade ground. There are two mounted troopers on guard outside the Whitehall entrance to the Horse Guard House daily from 10am to 4pm. Thankfully they change out every hour ~ it would be hard to put up with silly tourist getting up in their faces trying to make them respond for much longer than an hour. I love the sign that warns the horses may bite or kick. There are two dismounted sentries on duty until 8pm when the gates are locked.

There is a changing of the Horse Guard Ceremony weekends at 11am and on Sundays at 10am. When the Queen is in London, the Long Guard consists of: 1 Officer, 1 Corporal Major who carries the Standard, 2 Non-Commissioned Officers (NCOs), 1 Trumpeter and 10 Troopers.  When the Queen is out-of-town, it is known as the Short Guard which consists of: 2 NCOs and 10 Troopers. The Ceremony begins with the Old Guard coming through the Arch to the Horse Parade and lining up on the north side. The New Guard rides in from Hyde Park and lines up on the south side. As the New Guard arrives, each Guard carries their Standard and the Trumpeters of both the Old and New Guard sound the Royal Salute.

So glad I finally went to see the Changing of the Horse Guards ceremony yesterday. Very tradional ceremony and what’s not to like about seeing gorgeous horses ~ they are big with lots of spunk. Kudos to the troopers for keeping those big beasts under control for such a long time.

New Guards riding in from Hyde Park

New Guards riding in from Hyde Park

Horse Guards

Horse Guards

Horse Guard Change

Horse Guard Change

Mounted Trooper

Mounted Trooper

Old Guard

Old Guard

Horse Guard Exchange

New Guard on left, Old Guard on right

Horse Guard

Horse Guard

New Guard

New Guard

Trupeter ~ Queen is in London!

Trumpeter ~ Queen is in London!

Spunky Horses

Spunky Horses

Horse Guard leaving for Hyde Park

Horse Guard leaving for Hyde Park

Wolseley on Horse Statue

Wolseley on Horse Statue at the Horse Parade Grounds

London Eye

View of London Eye from the Horse Parade

WWI Memorial across from the Horse Parade

WWI Memorial across from the Horse Parade

Horse Guards with Wolseley Statue in background

Horse Guards with Wolseley Statue in background

Horse Guard

Horse Guard

Today is International Women’s Day.

As an American woman, I’m grateful for the rights I have and I’m especially thankful for a husband who sees me as an equal partner. I hope I never take these blessings for granted but if I do I only have to look to certain countries to know I have it good.

Living in London has allowed me to explore the city in search of art, museums, history, beautiful sights and other fun adventures. But what has been truly amazing for all three of us is the interaction we’ve had with people from so many different countries and cultures.

This past Tuesday we hosted a dinner for some Afghani friends ~ one woman and one man. Both had very interesting stories to tell but I have to admit, it was her stories I found so compelling. It started with the sentence “I was 16 when the Taliban took over. They told us we couldn’t go to school. I kept my books for 5 years thinking each day that maybe the next day I would go to school.”  From that point on we were all mesmerized and anxious to hear what happened next. Five years later from the time she could no longer go to school, and after living without TV, radio, or  even electricity, she has a very different perspective of the NATO intervention.

Once the Taliban was out of power and her opportunities restored, she ended up going to “Ole Miss” (University of Mississippi) on a Fulbright Scholarship. After graduating, she returned to Afghanistan to teach. I was especially in awe of the way she handled the boys who didn’t want to learn from a female teacher. This woman’s strength and conviction is inspiring!

What struck me the most was her lack of bitterness or hatred when she spoke of the things that happened in her past. I can’t think of a better way to celebrate International Women’s Day then to think of her accomplishments!