One of my New Years resolutions is to dust off my Flashback Friday updates.  There was a lot of dust to clear since I haven’t done a Flashback Friday since 2009!  As I was catching up with friends currently living in Germany, we discussed all the wonderful places to visit in Europe. I highly recommended they visit Mariánské Lázně and Karlovy Lázně which are two Czech spa towns within an easy drive from Grafenwöhr. Mariánské Lázně is only a 40 minute drive. Both towns are also a wonderful day trip from Prague.  Please forgive my photos in this post, they’re from the early 2000s and before I got a digital camera. All these photos are (gasp) scanned.

Mariánské Lázně (Marienbad) is truly beautiful any time of year but springtime is my favorite. There are several parks with pretty flowers which I enjoyed strolling through and letting Logan run around. The main Colonnade is a cast iron construction with a wooden ceiling and a Singing Fountain. From April to October, the fountain dances every odd hour beginning at 7am. There’s a famous composition playing during the display. If you happen to be there during the evening, lights are added enhancing the water show.  Click here for a Singing Fountain schedule of music compositions.

In these spa towns, there are mineral springs, containing carbon dioxide and mineral salts. Drinking the mineral water is said to have medicinal effects ~ people have been partaking in mineral springs water since the times of the ancient Greeks and Romans.  Personally I couldn’t get past my one sip of the water.  But I did enjoy the spa wafers ~ be sure to try them while you’re there.

“Spa treatments” didn’t start in Central Europe until 18th Century and Mariánské Lázně is one of the youngest of spa towns.  The town celebrated it’s 200 year anniversary in 2008.

Whenever we would visit, we enjoyed all the various fountains around town:

Marianske Lanske Logan at Fountain in Marienbad

Karlovy Lázně (Karlsbad) is the more famous spa town, as well as the largest, in the Czech Republic. It’s a charming town which lies in a lush green valley where the River Teplá and River Ohře (Eger) converge. Meandering through town is the best way to see it. The town has impressive Colonnades which you can walk through and drink the healing waters.The earliest mention of the treatments in Karlovy Lázně comes when, at the end of the 14th century, Charles IV submersed his ill legs in one of the mineral springs.

Colonnade

Sampling the mineral water

Sampling the mineral water

Thermal Hotel

Logan walking along the River Teplá

John and Logan along river Teplá

The view from the top of the hill is impressive not to mention the fun of riding the funicular train to the top:

View of Karlovy Vary

View of Karlovy Vary

Top of venicular Venicular

Be sure to have lunch or dinner at the GrandHotel Pupp.  It’s very elegant with fantastic customer service.  The hotel was a location site in the movie Last Holiday and it also appears in the James Bond film Casino Royale  (the one with yummy Daniel Craig) although in the film it’s referred to as Hotel Splendide in Montenegro.

Granhotel Pupp

We took most of our visitors to Karlovy Lázně and got a photo of them on the steps near the center of town.

Jamie, Tricia, and Kayla on the steps

On the steps KV Frank and Phyllis

On the Steps KV Karla and Scott

On the steps in Karlovy Vary  John and PattiBetty and John on the steps

Makes me smile just remembering those wonderful visits!

Back in Blighty

When I lived in DC, I met a very nice British couple and when I invited them to a party at our house (a St Patrick’s Day party no less), the husband said “I’ll be in Blighty”.  At the time, I had no idea what Blighty meant and so I googled it.  Turns out it’s the name for Britain which was originally used by British Soldiers stationed in India who were trying to say bilāyatī (meaning Britain).

We’re back in Blighty after our wonderful week in Germany. Germany is so beautiful and what’s not to love: beer, no speed limit on the autobahn, lots of green open spaces, castles, snowy alps, beautiful cities and everything is very clean.  Although my German language skills are lacking, I did remember the most important phrase “Weißwein ~ trocken, bitte”

Having lived in Germany for many years, there are several cultural behaviors I’ve observed that still make me chuckle.  Just as I know people chuckle (or worse) when I commit typical American actions. Germans, for the most part, don’t have a lot of concern for personal space and I have a need for more personal space than most people.  It took me awhile to get use to that aspect of living in Germany.  The other is standing in line ~ not something most Germans do willingly.  I learned early on to guard my spot in line ~ no daylight allowed between me and the person in front of me.  Once I had an older woman in the Aldi store bump me with her grocery cart from behind.  I think she was hoping I’d step out of line so she could jump ahead, but after the third bump, without looking back, I put my foot on the front bottom part of her cart and pushed as hard as I could.  Finally, she stopped bumping me with that blasted cart.

The other day, when we got to the Easy Jet check-in counter at the Munich airport, the desk wasn’t open yet but a line was already forming.  Logan and I left John with the luggage (3 bags) and we went to get juice.  We were gone about 5 minutes and came back to see the desk was open but John was further back in the line than when we left him.  When I asked John what happened, he laughed and said he was too slow moving the bags forward so people just moved in front of him rather than wait until he moved the bags.  Never would that happen in the UK where queueing is an art form and rigidly adhered to ~ if someone dares to jump the line, they’ll no doubt be chastised.

I make these observations, not as a critique of the Germans, but because the customary actions made us feel even more comfortable being back there.  Just as we feel comfortable being back in Blighty where we know what’s the expected behavior.  Or as the saying goes “When in Rome…”

München Airport ~ Kempinski Hotel

When we lived in Germany and were flying out of München airport on an early flight, we would opt to stay at the Kempinski Hotel the night before rather than drive the 2 hours prior to a flight.  The hotel still offers their “Park/Sleep/Fly” package starting at €169 for one night, early morning breakfast, parking for 8 days and use of the 24 hour gym/spa/swimming pool. The lobby is very modern as is the rest of the hotel:

Kempinski Munich Hotel

The location of the hotel can’t be beat as it’s between terminals 1 and 2 with the car rental return conveniently located opposite the hotel entrance. Nothing quite like walking out of the hotel lobby to the airline check-in counter in about 5 minutes. We checked in thinking we would have a quiet night in our room but once we found out there was a “Winter Market” going on at the airport, complete with an ice skating rink, Bavarian curling lane, over 50 food/gift market stalls, a live band and glühwein, we headed out to enjoy. Logan and I ate the savory crepes and roasted chestnuts while John searched for the best Bratwurst. The Winter Market was a nice surprise to end our vacation in Germany.

Winter Market

Skating and curling rinks at the Winter Market Munich Airport

At the Winter Market Munchen Airport

It was a wonderful visit to Bavaria and before we knew it, we were packed up and on our way back to London. At the end of a trip, I wish I could snap my fingers and be home. I can’t complain though, our Easy Jet flight was smooth and on-time with the trains between Gatwick and St. Pancras running frequently so we only had a short wait for our train home.

Bye to Germany

Grafenwöhr and Weiden, Germany

Grafenwöhr was our stomping grounds from 2001 to 2005 and it was so nice to be back in the area.  It’s a beautiful location and it’s grown quite a bit since we left but it still has several historic buildings:

Water Tower, Grafenwoehr

Water Tower, Grafenwöhr

Forsthaus circa 1909

Forsthaus circa 1909

We lived about 30 minutes from Graf in the sleepy town of Neunkirchen bei Weiden. It has two churches, the kindergarten my daughter attended, lots of walking/biking paths and much more. We met many wonderful friends when we lived there and still keep in contact with them.  A flood of memories came rushing back as we drove into town:

sign for Neunkirchen

We saw a rainbow as we drove toward Neunkirchen ~ made me feel welcomed:

Rainbow

When we lived in Neunkirchen, we had two large dogs who loved running free in the forest surrounding the town.  We went back to see if there were any changes and we’re happy to report everything appears exactly the same.

Logan in the forest

Logan in the forest

It’s important to keep a lookout for interesting things when driving in Germany, you never know what you might see along the road. Here’s a tiny chapel:

Little chapel near Kaltenbrunn

or a cross along the road:

Bench and cross near kaltenbrunn

We went to our favorite restaurant, Pegasus not once but twice. We were considered stammtisch (a regular) when we lived in Neunkirchen.  We would walk in and they wouldn’t even ask our order ~ they would just bring our drinks and food to the table.  Unless mussels were in season, then John would change his order.  If you’re in the area and get a chance to go to Pegasus, I highly recommend the Scampi Diavolo.

On Friday, we went to lunch at Pegasus with our German neighbor, Norbert and his son.  Then today, as we headed out of town and at the last minute, we decided to swing by and eat there one more time since we have no idea when our next trip to Germany will be.  Surprisingly,as we drove into the parking lot, we saw Norbert walking toward the entrance!!  Must be fate ~ we couldn’t have planned it any better.

Pegasus at the flugplatz ~ our favorite restaurant

Pegasus at the flugplatz ~ our favorite restaurant

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Neunkirchen is very close to Weiden which is a very pretty German town with a lovely pedestrian zone (Fußgängerzone).  It looks even prettier with Christmas decorations.  We met with our friends, Nadja, German and their two adorable daughters for dinner in Weiden:

With Nadja and fam in Weiden

More of beautiful Weiden at night:

Arch to Weiden

Archway to Weiden

Weiden

This was less of a sightseeing trip and more of a chance to reconnect with old friends.  From the looks of our photos, we ate our way through Germany!  Good food, Great friends!

Lunch with Youngs, Gilbertsons

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Eating our way through Germany

Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany (Bavaria)

We landed in Munich, after a little over an hour flight from Gatwick Airport (London).  Once we got on the Autobahn, the Audis (and one Aston Martin) were flying by, making our car shake as though we were standing still. No doubt they were trying to break the sound barrier.

We traveled extensively during our 5 years living in Germany and several of those trips were spent in Garmisch-Partenkirchen.  As always, it was great to see the mountains as we drove into Garmisch:

Garmisch Mountains

All the sights, sounds, and smells brought back a flood of wonderful memories.  My heart was a little heavy as I remembered our last visit to Garmisch which was New Year’s Eve 2005.  My mom spent the week with us at the Edelweiss Lodge and it was a magical time.  There was lots of snow, fireworks, trips to Neuschwanstein Castle and other local historic sites. For years afterwards, my mom would frequently tell me how much she enjoyed that particular vacation. Made me miss her more than usual.

Sadly, as we drove into town, we could tell there wasn’t a lot of snow.  Our main purpose for returning to Garmisch was to ski so we needed to chase the snow.  We found it in Ehrwald, on the Austrian side of the Zugspitz, which is the tallest mountain in Germany at 2962 meters.  It’s only a 30 minute drive from Garmisch,  20 minutes if you can drive like a German.

Admittedly, I’m a snow snob.  If it’s icy or slushy, I’d rather not go through the expense or pain (those boots are torture to me).  John learned to ski in Ohio so his idea of a good snow day is any snow at all. John and Logan hit the slopes with a smile on their faces:

John and Logan at base of the mountain

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On our way out of town, we stopped at the Olympic Ski Stadium where the 1936 Winter Olympics were held. The stadium has hosted a variety of ski competitions and also has a ski jump school.  The ski jumps make my stomach queasy just looking at them:

Three Ski Jumps in Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Reading the signs in German are always fun ~ trying to decipher the words that have been cobbled together.  I actually figured this one out:

Ski School Sign

Logan sat in the old seating:

Olympic Stadium seats from 1936

Garmisch is a beautiful Bavarian town with lots to do whatever the season.  We’ve been to Garmisch over half a dozen times, at different times of the year, and it’s always been a fun time.   We’re heading north today ~ back to the Oberpfalz (Bavaria) where we lived for four of our five years in Germany.

Hampton Court, UK

A year in London allows me to visit places not necessarily on every tourist agenda but this week I visited a location at the top of most “what to do in London” lists:  Hampton Court .  A definite must see!

Hampton Court is an easy 30 minute train ride from London’s Waterloo station (round trip fare cost less than £10).  From the train station, you walk over the bridge and in about five minutes, you’re at the entrance to Hampton Court.  You could take a boat on the Thames from Westminster Pier but it takes four hours so I would suggest that on a warm summer day and then take the train back to London.

Hampton Court

There are beautiful gates at the entrance:

Hampton Court Entrance

Originally, Hampton Court was built by Cardinal Wolsey, beginning in 1514, when he was Henry VIII’s Lord Chancellor.  His relationship with the king soured and , by 1525, Henry VIII took over Hampton Court as a Royal Residence.  The entrance fee is £ 16.95.  Once you’re in, there are free costumed guided tours of the State Rooms and there are free audio guides.  We opted for the audio guides so we could go at our own pace.

Hampton Court I

Cardinal Wolsey’s Rooms and the Renaissance Picture Gallery are used to showcase 16th and early 17th century paintings from the Royal Collection. The Royal Chapel was built by the Cardinal and is still in use ~almost 500 years!  It’s a gorgeous chapel (no photos allowed) with a vaulted ceiling.  The Chapel has been changed a little throughout the years but it’s been an active church the entire time.  There is a King James bible, commissioned in 1611 by King James I, still in use today.

The Clock in Clock Court:

Hampton Court Clock Courtyard

A lot of Henry VIII’s palace was lost during the reign of King William III and Queen Mary II. They hired Christopher Wren to rebuild the palace.  We walked through William III’s apartments, making sure we looked up in every room because the palace ceilings are beautiful:

Hampton Court Williams bedroom

The view from William III’s apartments to the gardens:

Hampton Court Gardens

…and the King’s really private room.

Hampton Court Williams toilet

King Henry VIII’s Great Hall:

Hampton Court Great Hall

Where the King and Queen sat when they ate in the Great Hall:

Hampton Court Great Hall King and Queen seating

Decorated ceiling in the Great Hall:

Ceiling in the Great Hall

Fountain Court:

Hampton Court Green Courtyard

Hampton Court Hallway

Pretty Christmas Trees decorating the windows outside the Royal Chapel:

Hampton Court Christmas Trees

The Henry VIII kitchens were fascinating.  It amazes me how much food was cooked/produced for the 600 + people in the court. The enormous fireplace in the kitchens:

Hampton Court Fireplace

One of the best parts of our visit was we had the place almost to ourselves.  It was a rainy, cold day so close to Christmas and there were no school field trips. I can imagine how beautiful the gardens and courtyards must be during the the spring. We also passed on checking out the Maze and the tennis courts so I will have to make a return trip before we leave and will take Logan with me.

Hampton Court II

International Dinners

John is attending a year-long course here in London. Roughly half of the class are international students, the other half are British and there’s only one other American.  It makes for very interesting conversations when we get together as a group ~ not always pleasant, but always engaging.

We know this is a once in a lifetime opportunity to get to know people from all around the world.  We meant to start hosting dinners much sooner, but here we are four months into our stay in London, and we finally invited our first guests from amongst John’s fellow students ~ the Israeli family.

We served typical American fare including chocolate brownies for dessert (big hit with the girls). We did throw in a British tradition which is the famous Christmas Crackers ~ they pop when you pull them open and there is little prize inside as well as a paper crown.  My prize was a mini mirror.  As we travel, I love to add new traditions to our celebrations and the Christmas Cracker is definitely a keeper.

Christmas Cracker

Christmas Cracker

 

At the end of the meal, we pulled out a game and Logan chose to torture teach them how to play “Apples to Apples” ~ it’s a fun game of word comparisons. Good way to build vocabulary. Turns out, they had so much fun with the game, the girls have asked their parents to buy the game so they can play at home.

Apples to Apples

As I expected, the conversation was fascinating and I learned many new things about living in Israel.  I already knew about the compulsory military service at age 18 for both men (they serve 3 years) and women (2 years) but it was different hearing about it as I looked around the table at their four daughters and I thought about each one of them in the military.  It also got me thinking about our all-volunteer military (which is less than 1% of the US population) ~ how so few do so much for so many.

Darn if they didn’t make me feel like a homebody!  As much as I’ve traveled the world, they’ve traveled so much more than either John or I.  Backpacking in Chile? Carnival in Rio? Hmmm…I’ve got a long way to go to catch up with their adventures.  It was fascinating to hear about it though and I’ve added several places to my travel wish list.  Including Israel!

As they were leaving, John’s colleague told us this was the first time he saw a Christmas tree in someone’s home.  That warmed my heart as I love the idea that we were able to impart a new experience on someone who has been around the world is a great feeling.

Dennis Severs House

Even though I researched Dennis Severs’ House before going to visit, it wasn’t quite what I expected.  I must be one of the ones he referred to as “pigeonholed styles of intelligence” because I wanted a little more explanation about the rooms and perhaps a little more light (even if it was more candlelight) to see the rooms.  But I’m getting ahead of myself, let me start over…

A group of us expats met at the house at noon. There are very limited hours and days when the house is open to the public. For more information go to the Dennis Severs House website here. No talking or photographs are allowed inside the house.  I took a few photos outside but if you want to see additional indoor photos, click here for a photostream on Flickr.

18 Folgate StreetDennis Severs' House

18 Folgate Street
Dennis Severs’ House

Dennis Severs was an American artist from Escondido, California and he moved to London right after high school.  He was especially enthralled with the Victorian age and, in 1979, purchased a home (circa 1724) in East London, just steps from Spitalfields Market. He lived in the house from 1979 to 1999 and refurbished each of the 10 rooms to reflect the time periods between 1724 and 1914.  One room represents the Enlightenment Age, another the Romantic Age, and so on.  He lived in the house without electricity to better experience what it was like back then. His vision was for a person to feel like they stepped through the canvas of a painting and back in time.  The house is set-up as though the family living there just “popped out” for a minute.  There are food items on the tables, dishes in the sink, laundry hanging, a tea-cup spilled on the floor, etc.  Dennis Severs wanted those visiting to feel, smell, and hear the house.  He was adamant that it wasn’t a museum, but a spiritual experience.

The idea is great and I was so looking forward to it, but the execution proved harder to achieve. Letting yourself get lost in the experience is difficult because the rooms are small and you’re trying to avoid stepping into and in front of the other people.  A better experience would be to have the room to yourself, perhaps sit, and let yourself absorb the sights, sounds and smells.  That would require much better scheduling of visitors on the part of the Spitalfields Trust who owns the property.

I also didn’t like the typed notes found around the rooms which stated “if you’re looking at individual items, you’re not doing it right”.  It was jarring to say the least.  Who wants to be judged when you’re trying to get into the experience.  And who doesn’t look at individual items on display.  When I visit a friend’s home, I always look at their items on the mantel, in the windows and on their walls. Why else would they have them out in the living room?  The motto of the house is “Aut Visum Aut Non!” (You either see it or you don’t) ~ I get the feeling those running the visits don’t care one way or the other.

Would I recommend you go? I give a qualified yes.  Don’t go with any expectations of learning about a certain time period but go for the experience of seeing a “preserved” house and participating in something different.  I may return myself just to see if I get a different experience out of it, now that I know what to expect.

Dennis Severs House 4 stories and a basement

Dennis Severs House
4 stories and a basement

Old Marylebone Walking Tour

After spending the morning at Camden Market, we were enjoying the outdoors too much to go back to the flat so we met up with London Walks on Oxford Street for a 2 hour tour of Marylebone, our London neighborhood.  We didn’t really meet on Oxford Street which is crazy crowded on a Saturday in December, right before Christmas.  We waited on Stratford Street which is just off Oxford. Here’s what we saw as we peeked out to Oxford Street:

Oxford Street on a Saturday

The tour started off a little rough when the guide asked if there were any Americans on the tour.  He then asked who the 8th president of the US was.  Hmmm… I went through the first six ( Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, John Quincy Adams, ?).  John got Jackson as the 7th and then we couldn’t think of … Van Buren.  Ugh.  I need to study my presidents again ~ if nothing else but for the Pub Quiz.   His reason for asking ~ Van Buren lived on Stratford Place for a short time (1831-1832).

Peter was our walking guide (he’s in the white hat in the photo) and, as with all the other London Walks guides, I was impressed with his ability to tell such detailed stories all from memory (dates, names, locations) without once looking at a reference sheet. A tour of Marylebone wouldn’t be complete without the Wallace Collection and Peter didn’t disappoint.  I’ve written about the Wallace Collection before and it still remains one of my favorite museums in London.  The building was originally called Manchester House, after the 4th Duke of Manchester who had the house built between 1776-1788 because duck hunting was good in the area.  From 1791 to 1795, the house was used as the Spanish Embassy and the side street next to the house is called “Spanish Place.”

Peter our London Walks

Marylebone got its name from the St Mary’s Church and the church was situated on the Tyburn bourne (stream).  If you were to look at a map of Marylebone most of the streets are straight and developed on a grid like pattern. But Marylebone Lane stands out as an exception since that is where the stream flowed. Although the stream in this area is now hidden underground, take a look at the photo below and imagine the road being the stream:

Marylebone Lane  Also along Marylebone Lane, you’ll find shops and restaurants like “The Button Queen” which is dedicated to all things buttons:

If you need a Button

A famous resident from Marylebone is Octavia Hill who was instrumental in helping the poor with better housing and was the co-founder of The National Trust.

Octavia Hill

The house she lived in was next to this narrow Grotto Passage:

Grotto Passage, W1

I especially enjoy walking around Marylebone at night ~ as with most of London, the lights add a certain air of romance and elegance.

Hertford House (Wallace Collection) at night

Hertford House (Wallace Collection) at night

St James Catholic Church at night

St James Catholic Church at night

Durrant Hotel in Marylebone

Durrant Hotel in Marylebone

 

There’s a restaurant in Marylebone called “Odin’s Bistro” which has been in the neighborhood for years. Everytime I walk by the sign I think of the Cromwells, a very nice couple we know from our time in Northern New York.  They recently had a son and his name is Odin.

Odin's

When we first heard we were moving to London, we researched the neighborhoods and got a lot of advice from those already living here.  Many people assumed we would want to be further out in a bigger place with a yard but, we couldn’t be happier with our smaller flat even if it doesn’t have a yard or an extra bedroom. The location is perfect for us, especially since we’re only here for one year.

 

London: Camden Market

There are several markets that combine to make up Camden Market in London and we started at the Inverness Street Market:

Inverness Street Market in Camden

Camden Market is off of Regents Canal, which was built in the early 1800s and  was instrumental in the development of the market area.  Unfortunately, once shipping became too expensive along the canal (1860s to 1870s), and other forms of transportation were used, the area was in disuse for many years. Thankfully, it was redeveloped in the 1970s and gets approximately 100,000 visitors each weekend.

Camden Lock

Camden Lock (2)

The area in and around Camden Lock was redeveloped into an arts, crafts, clothing and a very yummy food market.   There are tables where you can sit along the canal after grabbing a bite to eat from vendors serving foods from countries such as Peru, India, Jamaica, Thailand, Turkey, Mexico, Spain, Poland, etc.

Regents canal

Getting to the market was half the fun ~ we took a bus and got off at the Camden High Street stop.  The High Street has interesting, creative  artwork on the buildings.

Edgy Shops on Camden High Street

and the Union Jack Boot…

Union Jack High top

There’s a cool comic book store:

Comic book Store

A great place to get Halloween outfits is from the Victorian/Gothic/Pirate clothing store:

Shops on Camden High Street

There’s so much to do in Camden and, even during the day, it has a vibrant, edgy feel to it. The market is open 7 days a week, everyday except Christmas Day, from 10 am to 6 pm but not all vendors are there on the weekdays.  The tube stop is Camden Market but it’s a very busy station on the weekends.  So much so that on Sundays, Camden Market stop is an exit only from 1 to 5 pm.  If you want to catch the tube from Camden Market, it’s a short walk (maybe 10 minutes) to Mornington Crescent.

There is also a beautiful towpath which follows the canal.  From Camden, it goes towards Regents Park/Paddington or toward Kings Cross/Thames.  Originally, the towpath was used by the horses pulling the boats along the canal but now it’s for runner/walkers. There’s also a Regents Canal Museum behind Kings Cross Station.The photo below shows John and Logan on the path under Chalk Farm Road.

Regents Canal near Chalk Farm Road

It was a fun way to spend a Saturday morning and my only regret is we chose a Thai Restaurant on Camden High Street that turned out to be awful. Next time, I’m getting something from the food vendors at the market!