Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

We woke up not knowing where we were going to spend the next two nights so I scanned the internet a bit, looked through the Lonely Planet guide and came up with Clonakilty. We took our time driving from Doolin (County Clare) to Clonakilty (County Cork). Drove down the coast to Killmer where we caught the car ferry to Tarbert (County Kerry). We stopped in Tralee for lunch which was not the best choice for us ~ I found Tralee to be crowded and a bit unfriendly. We thought about doing the “Ring of Kerry” which a lot of guidebooks list as a “must do” but we only skirted along the top of the Ring. We left that drive on the list for next time.

Shannon Ferry from Killmer to Tarbert (County Kerry)

Shannon Ferry from Killmer to Tarbert (County Kerry)

There was beautiful scenery the entire drive to Clonakilty.

County Cork Coastline

Ireland Coastline

And there were lots of tractors along the road. We even saw an accident between a tractor and a truck ~ thankfully everyone seemed fine.

Tractor Jam

Tractor Jam

I chose to stay at the Bay View House B&B because it overlooks Clonakilty Bay. Unfortunately, the tide was low during the day but it’s still a nice view. The owner of the B&B along with her daughter are wonderful hosts ~ it was a great place to stay. Only hiccup was the man in the room next to us who had his TV on max volume until 1:30am. I finally knocked on the wall which he then thankfully turned it off. I’m the only light sleeper in the family.

The town is full of shops, restaurants and has a rich history. Michael Collins, the commander-in-chief of the Irish Free State army, was born near Clonakilty. If you’re interested, there’s a map called “In search of Michael Collins” which you can get at the town’s tourist office ~it traces the key places in the area such as birthplace, school, place of ambush where he was killed, etc.

Bay View House B&B, Clonakilty, County Cork

Bay View House B&B, Clonakilty, County Cork

View of Clonakilty Bay from B&B

View of Clonakilty Bay from B&B

Clonakilty, County Cork

Clonakilty, County Cork

On the second day in Clonakilty, we woke up to sunshine once again so we decided to spend some time in the County Cork countryside on horseback. All the rides in Clonakilty were booked so we ended up riding in the Mealagh Valley which is about 5 miles outside of Bantry. Weather could not have been more perfect for the ride and we were treated to a gorgeous view from the top of the hill overlooking the valley and out to Bantry Bay. It was about a 45 minute drive from the B&B and the road narrowed considerably as we got closer to the horse farm. We were greeted by several creatures: cats, dogs & sheep. I got a very good feeling about the Bantry Pony/Horseriding and when I asked, I found out they “rescue” neglected/unwanted ponies and horses. We love to ride when we visit a new location but sometimes I don’t like the way the horses are handled. Thankfully with Bantry Pony Trekking, I could tell the horses/ponies are loved and seem very content.  I feel confident HIGHLY recommending this activity if you’re in the County Cork.

Road to Horseback Riding, Bantry, County Cork

Road to Horseback Riding, Bantry, County Cork

Cat greeter at the horse farm

Cat greeter at the horse farm

Sheep Greeter at the horse farm

Sheep Greeter at the horse farm

Horseback riding in Country Cork (Bantry)

Horseback riding in Country Cork (Bantry)

View of Bantry and the Bay during horse ride

View of Bantry and the Bay during horse ride

Mama and her twins ~ she was definitely "on guard"

Mama and her twins ~ she was definitely “on guard”

Cow in Bantry

Cow in Bantry

We had a late lunch at Tractors (yummy) in Bantry then it was back to Clonakilty for the night.

Bantry, County Cork, Ireland

Bantry, County Cork, Ireland 

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Doolin Caves has the Great Stalactite which we heard about from several locals in Doolin. Having been to several caves in my past travels I wasn’t sure what to expect but have to say I was impressed by the Great Stalactite which at 23.5 ft (7.30 meters) is the longest free standing stalactite in the Northern Hemisphere.

The tour begins by taking the stairs down 80 ft into a tunnel and from there you wander through to a dome area where you’ll see the impressive stalactite. The maximum allowed per tour is 20 people and we were thrilled there were only 6 of us on the last tour of the day. Our tour guide was very informative and did a great job giving us the history of the cave. Our tour was a little less than an hour but I imagine with more people it would be closer to a full hour tour. Hard hats are provided and a must since the cave ceiling is very low in some spots ~I managed to hit my head a couple times and I’m only 5’8″. Plan on getting a little muddy so don’t wear your favorite pair of shoes. If you’re in Doolin, take an hour to enjoy the cave ~ it’s worth it.

Going through a passageway in the Doolin Cave.

Going through a passageway in the Doolin Cave.

Great Stalactite (23.5 ft) in Doolin Cave

Great Stalactite (23.5 ft) in Doolin Cave

Great Stalactite in Doolin Cave, Ireland

Great Stalactite in Doolin Cave, Ireland

A couple more photos of Doolin before we head out for County Cork.

Before sunrise in Doolin, Ireland.

Before sunrise in Doolin, Ireland.

Half Moon over Doolin, Ireland

Half Moon over Doolin, Ireland

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Wave off of Doolin Point, County Clare, Ireland

Wave off of Doolin Point, County Clare, Ireland

Bird near the Cliffs of Mohr, County Clare, Ireland

Gannet soaring near the Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

Doolin Bird

Gannet soaring along the water near the Cliffs of Moher

Birds in Flight

Herring Gulls in Flight

We hiked around the Cliffs of Moher which is about 8K south of Doolin but then decided we wanted to see it from the water as well so we booked a cruise on “Dolphin Discovery.” With full on sunshine and milder temps, it turned out to be a great way to spend the morning ~ got to see a friendly, playful dolphin, birds and the Cliffs of Moher.

Dolphin in the the Doolin Pier

Dolphin in the the Doolin Pier

Dolphin checking us out

Dolphin checking us out

Looks like Hawaii but it's really Ireland

Looks like Hawaii but it’s really Ireland

Cliffs of Mohr

Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Mohr

Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Mohr

Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Mohr

Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Mohr

Cliffs of Moher

If you want to go to the Cliffs of Moher, there’s a car park and visitor center. Click here for opening hours and prices.

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From Dublin, we drove through The Burren which is the region in North County Clare between Clare and Kinvara. The natural beauty of this area is breathtaking. We had reservations in a little town on the coast of The Burren called Doolin. We decided since we were leaving the city behind, we would opt for a small B&B called Kate’s Place. What a great choice. With only 3 rooms and it being brand new, we were treated to a very clean, charming little B&B with super friendly hosts, delicious & extremely filling breakfasts, and access to information about the area by someone who’s lived there all her life. We only stayed two nights but I was very tempted to spend the remainder of our vacation there (three additional nights).

Entering The Burren, County Clare, Ireland

Entering The Burren, County Clare, Ireland

Kate's Place B&B

Kate’s Place B&B

Driving into Doolin made me feel like I was back home on the Big Island (Hawaii). I know comparing Ireland to Hawaii sounds strange but the north part of County Clare has a similar landscape and feel to it. There are lots of wide open spaces, cattle grazing in the green fields, it’s a bit windy, hilly and, oddly enough, lots of surfboards on top of the cars. Although the Western Coast of Ireland is known for surfing ~ the air/water temperatures is where the comparison to Hawaii ends. It was still freezing when we arrived in Doolin.

Doolin's Narrow Road

Doolin’s Narrow Road

Church in Doolin, County Clare

                                                  Catholic Church in Doolin, County Clare

Doolin, County Clare, Ireland

Doolin, County Clare, Ireland

Narrow Road Driving to Doolin, County Clare

Narrow Road Driving to Doolin, County Clare

More Sheep in Doolin

More Sheep in Doolin

House in Doolin, County Clare, Ireland

House in Doolin, County Clare, Ireland

Pier in Doolin, County Clare, Ireland

Pier in Doolin, County Clare, Ireland

Stream in Doolin, County Clare, Ireland

Stream in Doolin, County Clare, Ireland

Doolin is known for its traditional Irish music at the pubs and O’Connor’s Pub has nightly music at 9:30 pm. Since it was Easter Monday, they also had a small band playing at 6:30pm. While the local musicians played, a local Irish singer named Ted McCormac joined in and it was fabulous! Felt fortunate to hear him sing.

O'Connors Pub in Doolin, County Clare

O’Connors Pub in Doolin, County Clare

On the second night at O’Connors, we saw the owner of the B&B join in the band with his button accordion. The best Irish music is when the locals get together and join in randomly.

I didn’t drive while we were in Scotland but have since taken to the wheel. So far, I haven’t had any trouble with remembering to stay left when driving and shifting with my left hand instead of right is easy. In fact, I prefer driving to being a passenger…especially since John always asks “would you like “on-coming traffic side” or “stone wall side” ~ both choices are stressful.

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I admit, my expectations of Dublin were so high I doubt any city could live up to my own hype. It’s not that I didn’t like Dublin, it’s more that I felt absolutely nothing while I was there. Usually when I’m in a new area, I get a feeling from it: good, bad, fun, funky but, in Dublin, I felt bland. On the positive side, we stayed two nights in beautiful lodgings just off St Stephens Green in central Dublin. We were within easy walking distance to Trinity College, Temple Bar, the Liffey River and the Christ Church Cathedral in oldest part of town.

Catholic University Doorway

Lion guarding the Doorway

Fusillier's Arch into St Stephen's Green, Dublin

Fusillier’s Arch into St Stephen’s Green, Dublin

The highlight of our visit was Easter Mass at Catholic University Church just on the other side of St Stephens Green. The Priest’s homily was so heartfelt (he spoke extensively about Human Rights) that it brought tears to my eyes. There was also a choir and a solo singer ~ both sounded so wonderful but the singer had one of those haunting Irish voices ~ what I would imagine an Irish Angel would sound like. I could have listened to her all day.

Trinity College, Dublin

Trinity College, Dublin

Trinity College Campus, Dublin

Trinity College Campus, Dublin

Trinity College Library ~ original editions

Trinity College Library ~ original editions

Beautiful Trinity College Library

The Long Room in Beautiful Trinity College

In the afternoon, we headed over to Trinity College to view the “Book of Kells” which was written over a thousand years ago. It’s comprises the four Gospels and was created by Monks on the Iona Island (off the coast of Scotland). Originally one book, but in the 1950s, it was rebound into four separate volumes. Two are on display at Trinity and two are on tour. Photos weren’t allowed in the “Book of Kells” display.

In the early evening, we wandered around the Temple Bar area but we found it to be a bit of a zoo. My days of stepping over vomit from beer guzzling lightweights are over. We’ll avoid the area next time.

Temple Bar Area Dublin

Temple Bar Area Dublin

Dublin Q here

Literary Pub Crawl ~ defiitely on the list for "next time"

Literary Pub Crawl ~ defiitely on the list for “next time”

I’m very excited we’re leaving the city behind for 4 days and we’ll be out in the Irish Countryside…

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Disclaimer: These are my personal opinions about my visit to Belfast. If you’re looking for an in-depth history of “The Troubles” in Northern Ireland, this is not it.

Most of my reluctance to visit Belfast was the recent renewed tensions (violence) ~ it’s covered extensively on British TV. In the end, I’m so glad I went to see the city for myself rather than rely on the media. It’s obvious there has been a lot of progress made in the last 15 years since the Good Friday Peace Accord was brokered (in 1998). We didn’t plan it, but we were in Belfast on Good Friday so there were a few events happening for the anniversary. Unfortunately, the famous pub “Crown Liquor Saloon” (circa 1826), which is located in a beautiful Victorian building and still has gas lights overhead, was closed due to Good Friday. The Irish take the Good Friday holiday VERY seriously ~ even the pubs in Dublin were closed or so we were told from our Dublin cab driver.

City Hall, Belfast

City Hall, Belfast

Staircase in Belfast City Hall

Staircase in Belfast City Hall

Stained Glass in City Hall, Belfast

Stained Glass in City Hall, Belfast

"No Mean City" Exhibition at City Hall, Belfast

“No Mean City” Exhibition at City Hall, Belfast

Memorial to the Titanic Victims, Outside Belfast City Hall

Memorial to the Titanic Victims, Outside Belfast City Hall

We visited City Hall which was dealing with the “British Flag” flying controversy.  From my understanding, the British Flag used to fly 365 days a year but recently, Sinn Féin formed a coalition, gained a majority in the government and voted to fly the Union Jack a limited number of days. The decision is not sitting well with the Loyalists and so it is ratcheting up the tension once again in Belfast. As we were leaving town, we saw Loyalist demonstrators in front of City Hall waving the British flag. Our taxi driver said he was making about £5,000 a month prior to the latest controversy but since news about the renewed tensions (and bombs being found), his income from tourists has dropped to £1500.

St Annn's Cathedral, Belfast

St Anne’s Cathedral, Belfast

Mural in Cathedral Quarter, Belfast

Mural in Cathedral Quarter, Belfast

Belfast has beautiful and interesting artwork throughout the city

Belfast has beautiful and interesting artwork throughout the city

Mural in Belfast

Mural in Belfast

Belfast Alleyway

Belfast Alleyway

Parliament Building, Belfast

Parliament Building, Belfast

Titanic Experience, Belfast

Titanic Experience, Belfast

Extreme Style in Belfast

Extreme Style in Belfast

We opted for the Hop-On Hop-Off bus tour with a live tour guide. As a lifelong Belfast resident, she was a fantastic guide and gave us the dramatic, tragic history of the area while infusing just the right amount of dark humor to keep the story from depressing us too much.

Peace Mural in West Belfast

Peace Mural in West Belfast

Political Mural in West Belfast

Political Mural in West Belfast

West Belfast Mural

West Belfast Mural

Curbside paintings designating what side of the political argument you're on(one hint: this would be "loyalist"

Curbside paintings designating what side of the political argument you’re on(one hint: this would be “loyalist”)

Political Mural showing how far back the tension goes in West Belfast

Political Mural showing how far back the tension goes in West Belfast

Intimidating Political Mural

Intimidating Political Mural

Peace Wall, West Belfast, Northern Ireland

Peace Wall, West Belfast, Northern Ireland

The Peace Wall, also known as “peace lines,” have been built all over West Belfast to separate Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. It’s the hardest part of the Peace Agreement for me to understand. Everyday, people in West Belfast wake up to these peace walls which are build with corrugated metal and barbed wire. Graffiti created by locals express everything from “Peace” to “Break the Wall Down.”  The walls are a constant reminder to residents (and visitors) that this kind of peace is fragile. I feel in order to move forward, integration is essential. Once you get to know your neighbor, you then start to respect your neighbor. Easier said than done, but I’m a hopeful person!

On a happier note, the restaurants we ate at in Belfast did not disappoint! Muriel’s in the City Center was a favorite of mine ~ delicious food and a quirky interior complete with “knickers” hanging throughout the restaurant. It used to be a hat shop at the turn of the century (I think) and the restaurant is filled with art deco.  Made in Belfast had a very fun atmosphere.  Both restaurants had comfy couches and a relaxed ambiance.

At "Made in Belfast" Restaurant

At “Made in Belfast” Restaurant

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We visited both the City Chambers and the Glasgow Cathedral (St Mungo’s). Very beautiful buildings…

WW I & II Memorial "Pro Patria" Glasgow CIty Hall

WW I & II Memorial “Pro Patria” Glasgow CIty Chambers

Marble Staircase in City Hall, Glasgow

Marble Staircase in City Chambers, Glasgow

Marble Staircase in City Hall, Glasgow

Marble Staircase in City Chambers, Glasgow

Guard Statues in City Hall, Glasgow

Guard Statues in City Chambers, Glasgow

Doorway in City Hall, Glasgow

Doorway in City Chambers, Glasgow

The Glasgow City Chambers sits on one end of George Square and is a very impressive building complete with mosaic tiles, marble and beautiful artwork. It was built in 1888 and is the headquarters building for the councils serving the City of Glasgow. Glasgow’s twin cities are: Dalian (China), Nuremberg (Germany), Turin (Italy), Rostove-on-Don (Russia), Havana (Cuba), Lahore (Pakistan), Marseille (France) and Bethlehem (Palestine).

Glasgow Cathdral, St Mungos

Glasgow cathedral, St Mungo’s

Original Door of the Glasgow Cathdral

Original Door of the Glasgow cathedral

Glasgow Cathedral Necropolis

Glasgow Cathedral Necropolis

Glasgow Cathedral Necropolis

Glasgow Cathedral Necropolis

Queen's Chair in the Cathedral

Queen’s Chair in the Cathedral

Stairs leading to the higher graves, Glasgow Cathedral

Stairs leading to the higher graves, Glasgow Cathedral

Stained Glass, Glasgow Cathedral

Stained Glass, Glasgow Cathedral

Example of a Memorial inside the Galsgow Cathedral

Example of a Memorial inside the Galsgow Cathedral

Most of the Glasgow Cathedral dates from the 15th century although most of the gorgeous stained glass windows are more current. It’s the only medieval Cathedral on the Scottish Mainland to survive the reformation. As we traveled through Scotland on this trip, we saw many ruins of Catherdrals/Churches which were destroyed during the reformation and the period of Henry VIII.  Good on the Glaswegians for their superior defensive strength during those difficult and destructive times.

The Gothic architecture of the Cathedral is dark and imposing. Inside the Cathedral, there are hundreds of memorials to soldiers from the wars throughout the years. Just outside the Cathedral is a Necropolis which is filled with eleborate tombs from wealthy industrialist from the Victorian age. It was fascinating (hopefully not too morbid) to read the inscriptions.

Glasgow St Mungos
Royal Highland Fusiliers Memorial

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…statue!!!

With the Nessie Statue

With the Nessie Statue

Traveling with John requires a detour every now and then to check out the myths, legends or just plain tacky places of the world such as Roswell, Graceland, The Largest Ball of Twine and now…The Search for Nessie, the Loch Ness Monster. We took the Jacobite Tours which included a boat ride on Loch Ness with stops at Urquhart Castle  and the Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition. The Centre helps debunk the myth of Nessie ~ and the exhibition includes original equipment used over the years in the search for the creature. It ended up being a great tour! Our guide, Kenny, was professional and a wealth of knowledge regarding the history of the area. He spoke about the ties of famous Americans to Scotland including Generals Grant & Lee. Nothing tacky about this tour or the area!

Urquhart Castle viewd from Loch Ness

Urquhart Castle viewed from Loch Ness

Urquhart Cstle Ruins

Urquhart Castle Ruins

Urquhart Castle Spy Holes to the Loch

Urquhart Castle Spy Holes to the Loch

The Gorgeous Grounds of Urquhart Castle

The Gorgeous Grounds of Urquhart Castle

Gatehouse at Urquhart Castle

Gatehouse at Urquhart Castle

Urquhart Castle Cellar

Urquhart Castle Cellar

Despite it being the slow season, not to mention freezing cold and snowing, it was a full tour with about 20 Korean visitors, 3 Danish backpackers, several Brits and another American from Berkeley (she said she was from San Francisco but I’m pretty sure she was from across the bridge). I can’t imagine what it must be like in the summer with all the crowds. I’m so glad we braved the elements and visited during the off-season.

It was interesting to listen to the tales from the Danish backpackers since they came in the day before from Glasgow, our next stop. Much as we hate to say goodbye to beautiful Inverness, it’s time to head south…

Another View from Our Room at Strathness House ~ loved it!

Another View from Our Room at Strathness House ~ loved it!

Thank Goodness for the English Translation

Thank Goodness for the English Translation

Ness River

Ness River

Strathness House and the Church

Strathness House and the Church

Strathness House Hotel

Strathness House Hotel

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Inverness is the furthest north I’ve ever been! Would love to go even farther north into the Shetland Islands but will have to save that for another trip. On our drive to Inverness, we stopped at Blair Castle which just happened to re-open that very day for the spring/summer season. We were cheerfully welcomed by a staff member and then greeted in the parking lot by a friendly, beautiful peacock.

Greeted by a Peacock at Blair Castle

Greeted by a Peacock at Blair Castle

Blair Castle sits on 108 square miles. The grounds are gorgeous with lots of grazing sheep. It’s the seat of the Duke of Atholl of the Murray Clan. The 12th Duke of Atholl actually lives in South Africa but he visits the castle every May to review the Atholl Highlanders, the only private Army in Britain. The castle tower dates back to 1269 but most of the castle has undergone lots of remodeling throughout the years. It was very interesting to visit the 30 rooms. Each room gives another layer of written history but I have to admit I’ve become spoiled and would prefer audio guides for such a large building.  There’s just so much information to cover over 744 years.

Blair Castle under restoration.

Blair Castle under restoration.

Blair Castle Clock Tower

Blair Castle Clock Tower

Blair River on the Blair Castle Grounds

Blair River on the Blair Castle Grounds

Sheep on the Blair Castle grounds

Sheep on the Blair Castle grounds

Blair Castle Ballroom

Blair Castle Ballroom

As we drove into Inverness and to our hotel, we knew we were someplace special. Inverness is a charming town and our hotel was ideally situated along the Ness River. We got in early enough to wander around the river bank and into town. Thankfully the weather was clear. Cold but clear. We were also treated to a beautiful full moon.

View from River of Inverness Castle

View from River of Inverness Castle

Along the Ness River at night

Along the Ness River at night

Inverness Castle Tower
Inverness Castle Tower

Full Moon over Inverness

Full Moon over Inverness

Thank goodness for Tripadvisor reviews leading me to The Strathness House which is an affordable hotel with great service and even better views. They only have 12 rooms and only 8 have views so if you go, book early.

Strathness House, Inverness

Strathness House, Inverness

View from Room at Strathness House, Inverness

View from Room at Strathness House, Inverness

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The Atholl Palace Hotel

The Atholl Palace Hotel

We stayed in Pitlochry which is half way between Edinburgh and Inverness. We encountered a bit more snow on the drive but thankfully it wasn’t enough to make driving any more dangerous. As we drove up to The Atholl Palace Hotel, the hotel loomed high on a snow-covered hill and reminded us of  “The Overlook Hotel” in The Shining.

The Atholl Palace Hotel entrance

The Atholl Palace Hotel entrance

Atholl Palace Hotel Hallway

Atholl Palace Hotel Hallway

Atholl Palace Hotel Lobby

Atholl Palace Hotel Lobby

It seemed more so once we checked in since the lobby is large with lots of seating near fireplaces. All along the walls are photos and memorabilia of the hotel ~ some as far back as it’s opening in the mid 1800s.

In the Basement Museum

In the Basement Museum

Wine and Wifi next to the Fireplace on a snowy night

Wine and Wifi next to the Fireplace on a snowy night

Lots of Period Furniture at The Atholl Palace Hotel

Lots of Period Furniture at The Atholl Palace Hotel

View from our room at Atholl Palace Hotel

View from our room at Atholl Palace Hotel

Snowy Drive to Pitlochry

Snowy Drive to Pitlochry

Room 108 at the Atholl Palace Hotel

Room 108 at the Atholl Palace Hotel

I would definitely stay here again if I’m traveling through this area. The staff is very friendly and efficient and, since there’s only WiFi in the lobby areas, it has a great “get to know your fellow traveler” feel to it. In the morning, John overheard a conversation of a 91-year-old discussing WWII. It’s not everyday we still have an opportunity to get “first hand” stories from those days. Oh, and you can’t beat the Whiskey Welcome at the front desk. For more information about the hotel, click here.

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