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Our 15-day road trip of Scotland and Ireland ended with an overnight in Dublin. We couldn’t resist checking out O’Donoghue’s Bar (15 Merrion Row) after reading Lonely Planet’s review stating it as “This, the most famous traditional music bar in Dublin, is where world-famous folk group ‘The Dubliners’ started off in the 1960s.”

O'Donoghue's Bar sign, Dublin, Ireland

O’Donoghue’s Bar sign, Dublin, Ireland

O'Donoghue's smoking section

O’Donoghue’s smoking section

O’Donoghue’s Bar is a great place to have a drink and listen to Irish music. The bar seems to attract locals and visitors alike. I noticed there were those in suits just coming from work and those in jeans/casual clothes. Interestingly, they stayed on different sides of the bar but the great equalizer was the smoking area where the two came together. Sort of ~ in the photo it still seems like suits on the right, jeans on the left.

Since I wasn’t thrilled with my previous visit to Dublin, I decided to scan blogs instead of the guidebooks for something to do prior to our late afternoon flight home to London. I was hoping to gain sage advice from a Dubliner and thankfully, I happened to find Arran Q Henderson’s blog post “Top Dublin Sights and Visits” (click here to read it). As soon as I read University Church as one of his suggestions, I knew I could trust his recommendations. Here’s what we ended up doing:

We walked through St Stephen’s Green to the Canal.

Fusillier's Arch, St Stephen's Green, Dublin, Ireland

Fusillier’s Arch, St Stephen’s Green, Dublin, Ireland

Robert Emmet (1778-1803) Statue in St Stephen's Green, Dublin Ireland

Robert Emmet (1778-1803) Statue in St Stephen’s Green, Dublin Ireland

I was intrigued by the statue of Robert Emmet. Two things caught my eye: he died so young and the plaque read “Presented by The Emmet Statue Committee of the United States of America.”  I decided to research the life and legacy of Robert Emmet. Born to wealthy Protestant parents, he sympathized with the unfair representation the Irish Catholics had in Parliament. He became an Irish Nationalist who was executed by the British for plotting a rebellion. He was captured when he moved from his hiding place to be with his lady-love thus becoming not only an heroic figure but a romantic one as well in Irish history. Robert Emmet also sympathized with American Revolutionaries and, after his execution, his older brother emigrated to the US. There are towns in several states named after Robert Emmet and there are similar statues of Robert Emmet in Washington DC (Embassy Row) and in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park.

Canal Lock, Dublin Ireland

Canal Lock, Dublin Ireland

Bikes and Bikes along the canal in Dublin, Ireland

Bikes and Bikes along the canal in Dublin, Ireland

Handsome Mallard, Dublin, Ireland

Handsome Mallard, Dublin, Ireland

Brisge over canal, Dublin, Ireland

Bridge over canal, Dublin, Ireland

As we left the canal and headed toward St Patrick’s Cathedral, we walked through a non-tourist neighborhood of Dublin. It was obvious to those around us that we weren’t from the ‘hood. A very nice gentleman chatted me up at the cross walk and he pointed out different interests in the neighborhood including telling me about a church which had been converted to apartments. Would love to see inside:

Protestant Church Converted to Apartments

Protestant Church Converted to Apartments

Tiki Heads (?) in Dublin, Ireland

Tiki Heads (?) in Dublin, Ireland

Mural in Dublin, Ireland

Mural in Dublin, Ireland

We finally made it to St Patrick’s Cathedral along with a large group of French teenagers (at least 40 of them). Couldn’t believe how many of them smoked.

St Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin Ireland

St Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Ireland

Always fun to find free WiFi

Always fun to find free WiFi

After spending more time in Dublin, I started to see more of its charms! I wouldn’t be adverse to another visit to the city.

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I admit, my expectations of Dublin were so high I doubt any city could live up to my own hype. It’s not that I didn’t like Dublin, it’s more that I felt absolutely nothing while I was there. Usually when I’m in a new area, I get a feeling from it: good, bad, fun, funky but, in Dublin, I felt bland. On the positive side, we stayed two nights in beautiful lodgings just off St Stephens Green in central Dublin. We were within easy walking distance to Trinity College, Temple Bar, the Liffey River and the Christ Church Cathedral in oldest part of town.

Catholic University Doorway

Lion guarding the Doorway

Fusillier's Arch into St Stephen's Green, Dublin

Fusillier’s Arch into St Stephen’s Green, Dublin

The highlight of our visit was Easter Mass at Catholic University Church just on the other side of St Stephens Green. The Priest’s homily was so heartfelt (he spoke extensively about Human Rights) that it brought tears to my eyes. There was also a choir and a solo singer ~ both sounded so wonderful but the singer had one of those haunting Irish voices ~ what I would imagine an Irish Angel would sound like. I could have listened to her all day.

Trinity College, Dublin

Trinity College, Dublin

Trinity College Campus, Dublin

Trinity College Campus, Dublin

Trinity College Library ~ original editions

Trinity College Library ~ original editions

Beautiful Trinity College Library

The Long Room in Beautiful Trinity College

In the afternoon, we headed over to Trinity College to view the “Book of Kells” which was written over a thousand years ago. It’s comprises the four Gospels and was created by Monks on the Iona Island (off the coast of Scotland). Originally one book, but in the 1950s, it was rebound into four separate volumes. Two are on display at Trinity and two are on tour. Photos weren’t allowed in the “Book of Kells” display.

In the early evening, we wandered around the Temple Bar area but we found it to be a bit of a zoo. My days of stepping over vomit from beer guzzling lightweights are over. We’ll avoid the area next time.

Temple Bar Area Dublin

Temple Bar Area Dublin

Dublin Q here

Literary Pub Crawl ~ defiitely on the list for "next time"

Literary Pub Crawl ~ defiitely on the list for “next time”

I’m very excited we’re leaving the city behind for 4 days and we’ll be out in the Irish Countryside…

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Not sure where to list Belfast ~ under UK? under Ireland? We use Lonely Planet guides on most of our travels and they list Northern Ireland in the Ireland book. I’ll play it safe and list it under all three: Ireland, UK, and Northern Ireland. Belfast was not on my radar as far as planning this trip but John insisted we go for at least one night. He wanted to make the boat trip into Ireland because some of my family are from Ireland and they immigrated to the US/Canada in the mid-1800s. John said “They left by boat, we should return by boat.”

Stena Line ~ Loading for Belfast

Stena Line ~ Loading for Belfast

Luxurious Seating on the Stena Line

Luxurious Seating on the Stena Line

Ferry Boat to Belfast: Stena Line

Ferry Boat to Belfast: Stena Line

We took the train from Glasgow to Ayr (about an hour) then a bus from Ayr to Cairnryan (about 90 minutes) then a ferry from Cairnryan to Belfast (about 2 hours). Stena Line is the nicest ferry I’ve ever been on ~ downright luxurious and we were in steerage. I’m used to bench seats and small ferrys. It was a full day of travel but interesting to interact with those making their way to Belfast for the Easter Weekend.

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