Posts Tagged ‘Travel’

¡Adiós a Malaga!

I could have definitely stayed another few days enjoying beautiful Malaga but as always it’s nice to be back home.

For our last day there, we took a train to Torremolinos to enjoy a bit of sun and sand. The train ride is about 20 minutes and costs €1.95 each. The short but meandering walk from the train station to the beach is lined with cafes and shops (mostly touristy stuff but a few artist shops).

Torremolinos Beach ~ looking toward Malaga

Torremolinos Beach ~ looking toward Malaga

A la Playa

A la Playa

Spain 2013

Spain 2013

On the Boadwalk in Torremolinos

On the boardwalk in Torremolinos

Fountain in Torremolinos

Fountain in Torremolinos near Train Station

One of the hotels in Torremolinos

One of the hotels in Torremolinos

Clocks in Torremolinos

Clocks in Torremolinos

Looking Fierce

Looking Fierce

While it was nice to spend time walking along the beach and having lunch on a patio enjoying the sunshine, I’m so glad we chose to stay in the city rather than at the beach. So much more character in Malaga and lots more cultural things to do. We stayed at Barcelo Malaga hotel located adjacent to the Malaga Maria Zambrano train station. Very contemporary decor, friendly staff, large rooms and great location. So easy (and cheap) to get to the beaches and airport. The walk from the hotel to the town center or to the Pier took about 10-15 minutes. They have a slide in the lobby which Logan couldn’t resist:

Slide at Hotel Barcelo in Malaga

Slide at Hotel Barcelo in Malaga

On our travels, we usually purchase an item to remind us of our visit. I prefer to buy from local artists so I was excited to see a shop in the town center which carries only local Spanish artwork. It’s called “Versión Original Málaga” and is located at Calle Granada, 71.  I’d popped into the shop several times and finally decided on hand painted poppy earrings:

Poppy Earring from Malaga (local artist)

Poppy Earring from Malaga (local artist)

And for John’s Valentine’s gift, I bought a hand painted mask. We’ve collected a few masks on our travels so this will add to the collection. How could I go wrong with fish and gnomes on it…

Hand-painted Mask from Malaga

Hand-painted Mask from Malaga

Logan and I definitely fell in love with Malaga. We’re excited to return to Spain and we’ve already booked a visit to Madrid ~ thanks to Easy Jet for the $126.00 roundtrip flight from London to Madrid.

A highlight of our trip to Malaga was being able to practice our Spanish. It was wonderful to communicate in another language and actually understand when they spoke back to me (as long as they spoke slowly!). It warmed my heart when my daughter said she was so proud of me for speaking Spanish even though I’m not fluent. Hopefully, I set a good example of what a traveler should do ~ respect the culture, attempt the language (even if it’s rudimentary) and keep an open mind. Now, here’s hoping the people of Madrid are just as patient with us.

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A lot of the Museums and sites in Málaga are closed on Mondays (during the winter months) so we decided to make Day 3 (Tuesday) our full-on tourist day complete with the “hop-on, hop-off” bus tour. We hopped off at “Cafe con Libros” in Plaza de la Merced. The outdoor seating area included swings:

On a swing at "Cafe con Libros" in Malaga

On a swing at “Cafe con Libros” in Malaga

Pablo Picasso was born in Málaga but left when he was nineteen years old and never came back (not even for a visit). Even though he had a “distant” relationship with the city, there’s a lovely Picasso Museum just off the Plaza de la Merced. The pieces on view in the permanent collection showcases eight decades of his artwork. It was fun to go through the museum with my daughter who hasn’t seem much of Picasso’s work ~ wish I had some of her reactions on video. Nothing like seeing the nude acrobat painting for the first time and trying to figure out which end is up. The entrance fee is €6 and well worth it. Logan was free. It’s closed on Mondays except in July and August. Photography is prohibited and backpacks must be checked at the desk.

More of Málaga from the bus tour:

House in Málaga

House in Málaga

Horse and buggy in Málaga

Horse and buggy in Málaga

Official Building in Málaga

Official Building in Málaga

Beach in Málaga

Beach in Málaga

Seems everyone rides motorcycles/scooters around town.

Motorcylces

motorcycles

Just before sunset, we went to see the Alcazaba (Palace/Fortress) which was built in the 11th century for the ruling Muslims. We were the last people to enter for the day and pretty much had the place to ourselves. Entrance fee for both of us was €2.55. What a bargain for a chance to see a beautiful location, high on a hill, overlooking Málaga.

Entrance to Alcazaba

Entrance to Alcazaba

Doorways

At Alcazaba

At Alcazaba

Tub at Alcazaba

Tub at Alcazaba

Sunset in Málaga ~ lighhouse at Pier

Sunset in Málaga ~ lighhouse at Pier

The Pier at night is so pretty ~ it’s lined with shops and restaurants.

Pier in Malaga

Pier in Malaga

Water Fountain at the Pier in Malaga

Water Fountain at the Pier in Malaga

Park at the Pier, Malaga

Park at the Pier, Malaga

Along the Pier, Malaga

Along the Pier, Malaga

View into town from the Pier, Malaga

View into town from the Pier, Malaga

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More Malaga

It took us no time at all to get on to “Spanish Time” ~ we got up too late and missed breakfast, then didn’t have lunch until 2pm, we’re almost done with siesta time and then it’s off to explore until our 8:30 dinner. Thankfully, Logan has a few more years before she gets to experience the midnight to dawn bar crowd.

We wandered around town again today. It’s just as pretty in daylight hours. Unfortunately, the weather turned a bit colder and is very windy but still better than London weather so we’re happy. I’ve been attempting to speak Spanish as much as possible and am thrilled at how patient the locals are with me. No rolling of the eyes like when I was in France and tried a few phrases in French. Granted, everyone I’ve spoken to here has had to have me repeat myself but they always let me have a second try (even if they speak English).

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Note to self: No matter how cost-effective ~ do NOT book a 7 am flight out of Gatwick on a Sunday morning. Since we don’t have a car in London, we rely on public transportation. On Sundays, the trains don’t run as early as during the weekdays. The 5am train was packed and we got to Gatwick with only 1 hour and 20 minutes before the flight was scheduled to take off.  Not much time to check a bag and get through security.  Thankfully, we made it to the gate before they closed the doors. Confession: we did cut in line at security.

All the travel stress melted away when we landed in Malaga ~ it was a balmy 21° (68° F) and sunny! Oh, how I’ve missed you Vitamin D. Logan and I checked-in at the hotel and promptly got into the Spanish culture by taking a 2 hour siesta.

From our hotel, we walked about 10 minutes to the town center and came upon the end of Malaga’s Carnival celebration. It’s a beautiful town and we only heard one other English-speaking couple. This area is a bastion for British visitors but my understanding is most go to the beach resorts just outside of town. Logan and I preferred to get a little more into the Spanish culture and practice our Spanish (such that it is) so we opted for a stay in Malaga.

Fountain in Malaga

Fountain in Malaga

Glimpse of the Cathedral in Malaga

Glimpse of the Cathedral in Malaga

Carnaval in Malaga 2013

Carnival in Malaga 2013

Logan in Malaga

Logan in Malaga

Statue at PLaza de la Mercer

Statue at PLaza de la Merced

Malaga Carnaval decorations

Malaga Carnival decorations

We decided to eat dinner at “La Lechuga” ~ a place called The Lettuce seemed like a good start for a couple of vegetarians. It’s located at Plaza de la Merced ~ birthplace of Picasso. La Lechuga was a great choice ~ very yummy! And not for just veggies, there were chicken, duck and other animals on the menu.

Mozzarella and tomato salad

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I ventured out to the Sunbury Antiques Market with two wonderful ladies ~ one being a previous “buyer” for a store specializing in antiques. Good thing because I know very little about antiques & vintage items. I was in awe of her knowledge and learned a lot just by listening to her talk to the vendors.

Leslie and Sonja

Leslie and Sonja

Sunbury Antiques Market is located at Kempton Park Racetrack and takes place on the 2nd and last Tuesday of the month. The doors open at 6:30 am and close at 2 pm. I would highly recommend arriving as early as possible as there are lots of buyers including those buying for the shops in London. Admission and parking are free. Bring cash ~ the ATM was bone dry by noon.

I have to admit, I was overwhelmed by all the furniture, crockery, china, glassware, kitchen items, lamps, rugs, fabric, jewelry, vintage luggage trunks, taxidermy (ugh!) and so much more. My favorites seem to be the French and Belgian vendors ~ I love the French Farmhouse style. There are rows and rows of vendors both outside and inside. According to the Sunbury Market website , 700 vendors populate the market and, after all we saw, I’m inclined to believe it.

Sunbury Antiques Market

Sunbury Antiques Market

Some of the vendors at Sunbury Antiques Market

Some of the vendors at Sunbury Antiques Market

The market is located between Hampton Court and Staines. The train from Waterloo (London) to Kempton Park Station takes 44 minutes and it’s an easy walk from the station to the market. Delivery men are available for hire and will transport your furniture/large purchases to London for a minimum of £50. One woman filled up an entire van with furniture and they charged her £100 to deliver all of it.

Although I saw several furniture pieces I’d love to have, such as the 1950’s coffee table and sideboard (all made of solid wood and in great condition), I ended up with just a couple of small pieces. My favorite purchase is the vintage tennis racquet from the 1960s (maybe 70s).

While no one will be hiring me to host “Antiques Road Show”, I do feel more comfortable about shopping at these types of markets. Next time, I might even try to bargain a little.

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When I find I have an unplanned day, its fun to randomly open a London guidebook and pick a place to visit. That’s how I found myself at 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields the other day with my friend, Leslie. Upon arriving at the entrance gate of the John Soane Museum, we were asked to put our purses into a clear plastic bag which we then had to carry by hand rather than over our shoulder. It all made perfect sense once I entered the house ~ its so cluttered with a variety of objects and paintings from around the world and I was in fear every time I turned around that I’d knock a priceless artifact off the wall.

Entrance to Sir John Soane Museum

Entrance to Sir John Soane Museum

Sir John Soane was born in 1753, the son of a bricklayer, he studied at the Royal Academy and became a very successful Georgian era architect. Some of his designs include: the Old Bank Of England (it was demolished), St Pancras Old Church and also the Dulwich Picture Gallery. Soane was an avid collector who was so disappointed in his sons, he chose to establish the house as a museum upon his death, rather than leave it to his heirs. He became Professor of Architecture at the Royal Academy in 1806 and he wanted both “amateurs and students” to have access to his extensive collection. I’m always so thankful for those who have the forethought to create such a public treasure for future generations.

Entrance is free but, be sure to arrive early as there can be long queues especially for the candlelight tours. I would highly recommend the guided tour for £10 since there isn’t a lot of explanation on the items and there are hidden panels lined with paintings which you’ll miss if you’re not on a tour.

One of my favorites is the famous painting series by William Hogarth: A Rake’s Progress. It’s a sad tale of a Rake’s (an immoral person) demise through too much drink, women & gambling. Perhaps his wife was reminding him about the excesses of wealthy and successful men when she gifted him the series.

The museum has been kept as close to how it was at the time of Soane’s death in 1837. To me, there is a randomness to the collection: a sarcophagus on the lower floor (in the crypt), an astronomical clock, the tombstone inscribed “Alas Poor Fanny”, Gothic carvings, 30,000 drawings, 6,000 books, Sir Robert Walpole’s desk, a pair of leg irons, plaster casts, sculptures & paintings. Can you call it hoarding if it’s a museum? The guide mentioned his wife refused to let him bring his collections into the main house which is next door to #13.  Smart women! She died 22 years prior to him and left his collecting unfettered.

After going through the museum, you walk through the beautiful, airy and open townhouse where they actually lived. It felt like a decompression chamber after feeling so claustrophobic in the museum.

Leave yourself a little time to enjoy the surrounding area. There’s a pretty park across the street.

Entrance to Lincoln's Inn Fields park

Entrance to Lincoln’s Inn Fields park

Having learned a bit about Sir John Soane, I’m interested in seeing his country home Pitzhanger Manor House in Ealing which was owned and rebuilt by him from 1800 to 1810. In the late 20th century, there was an extensive restoration done, returning the building back to Soane’s original design.

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My friend had a 20 hour layover in London. It was her first visit but, since her flight came in too late in the afternoon for us to actually go into any of the “must visit” venues, we did a whirlwind overview. After meeting her at Heathrow, we caught the Express train (15 minutes) to Paddington station. Having stored her larger suitcase, she was traveling very light so we caught the Bakerloo tube back to the flat to pick up John. Instead of doing the more expensive “Hop on, Hop off” tour bus (which is great if you have plenty of time), we took the public bus instead.

Double Decker Bus 453

Double Decker Bus 453

For a first time visitor, a double-decker bus ride is a quintessential London experience and we scored the front row seats on the upper deck ~ great view. I chose the 453 because it started for us near Regents Park, heads over to Great Portland Street, ambles down Regents Street through Oxford Circus, Piccadilly Circus, by Trafalgar Square, down Whitehall to Westminster where we hopped off.

Despite the freezing cold, there were a lot of other hardy souls out and about with us. We walked by Big Ben, Houses of Parliament (aka The Palace of Westminster) ,Westminster Abbey & the Cathedral. While we were walking around the crypt area, we could hear organ music ~ it certainly added a creepy touch (in a good way) to the dark and cold evening.

Big Ben

Big Ben

Westminster Crypt

Westminster Crypt courtyard

Westminster Crypt

We then caught the Jubilee tube to London Bridge so Rachel could have a view of Tower Bridge. We walked around Borough Market, even though the stalls were closed. We pointed out some of the Harry Potter film locations. We were looking for a traditional English pub to have dinner but then we walked by Roast restaurant.

Several people have mentioned to me that Roast is one of their favorite restaurants in London so we decided to give it a try. Surprisingly, even though it was a busy Saturday night, we were able to walk right in and even got a window seat overlooking the market and a view of St Paul’s Cathedral. I’m glad I didn’t read the “Rough Guide London” synopsis of the restaurant prior to going. They describe it as “a place for those seeking truly British meat dishes.” As a vegetarian, that would have given me pause and I might not have gone in. From the moment we entered, I felt very welcomed. Our adorable server was very friendly, professional and took great care of us. She had the cutest accent which none of us could figure out (it sounded a bit French to me). Curiosity got the better of us and we asked her from where she hailed. Being a good sport, she made us guess. She knew we’d never get it because she’s from Lithuania but she learned English in the US and in Quebec Canada (thus the French influence).

I had to ask for the special vegetarian menu since they don’t want those veggie dishes cluttering up their meaty menu. My meal of Butternut Squash Soup with Herefordshire goat curd and Beet Root & Blood Orange salad was nice but I could tell John and Rachel were a little more impressed with their meals of Dorset Rock Oysters, Beef Wellington and Beer-battered Cornish Whiting and chips.

Fish and Chips at Roast

Fish and Chips at Roast

The wine list is very extensive, and even included US wines which is uncommon, but I opted for a favorite of mine: Pinot Gris from Argentina. The dessert menu (puddings) looked fabulous but none of us had any room left. Rachel was a bit perplexed with the “Pudding Wines” until I explained that didn’t mean American puddings. In the UK, pudding=dessert.

I definitely recommend Roast for anyone wanting a special occasion. It’s on the more expensive side but worth it for a special night out. I’m planning a trip back for their Brunch ~ maybe in the spring.

Because her visit coincided with a rare snow storm in London, I was secretly hoping the snowy weather might delay her departure for a few hours today so we could show her a little more of the city. But her flight was one of the lucky ones (and one of the few) who made it out of Heathrow today.

It was wonderful to see Rachel and it was refreshing to experience London with someone seeing it for the very first time. Much fun!

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We decided, very last minute, to visit Windsor Castle and Eton. Unfortunately, the scheduled 55 minute direct train from Waterloo Train Station (London) to Windsor & Eaton Riverside Train Station took over TWO hours. The tracks were undergoing repairs which required a change of train stations via a 30 minute bus ride. Being flexible is a must when traveling on public transportation, especially on the weekends when repairs are scheduled.

Arriving in Windsor, we walked across the bridge over the River Thames and into Eton. The area oozes with history and I loved walking down the High Street looking at the old buildings and all the details on them.

Bridge between Eton and Windsor

Along the Thames

Swan Feeding along the Thames

Feeding the many swans along the Thames

Directional sign in Eton

Directional sign in Eton

15th Century home in Eton

15th Century home in Eton

Details on 15th Century house

Details on 15th Century house

Private alleyway in Eton

Private alleyway in Eton

Bike stand

Bike stand

Eton College is one of the most prestigious all-male schools in the world for boys ages 13-18. No less than 18 Prime Ministers of the UK have graduated from Eton including the current PM.  The school was founded in 1440 by King Henry VI who wished to provide a free education for poor but scholarly boys.  The college continues to offer scholarships but for the rest of the attendees, the cost of schooling runs about £ 32,000 per year ($41,800). Famous graduates you know: Prince William and Prince Harry.

Eaton College

Eaton College

Statue at Eton College

Statue at Eton College

Henry VI Statue in Eton College Courtyard

Henry VI Statue in Eton College Courtyard

We walked back over the bridge and up the High Street towards Windsor Castle. There are lots of restaurants and shops along the way.

Crooked House in Windsor

Crooked House in Windsor

Shortest Street in Britain

Shortest Street in Britain

On one of the buildings in Windsor is the “Warrant to Execute” King Charles I. He’s the only sitting monarch in England’s history to be executed.  And we think politics is rough these days!What a dangerous mess it was back in the 17th century.  Oliver Cromwell was instrumental in the downfall of the monarchy by having Charles I executed (his signature is easily seen on the warrant). On Feb 6, 1649, the monarchy was abolished and Oliver Cromwell became Chairman of the “Council of States.” 11 years later, Charles II returned to re-establish the monarchy and more heads rolled.

Warrant for the excecution of King Charles I

Warrant for the excecution of King Charles I

After working up an appetite walking around, we stopped for lunch at The Thai Place  (12 Thames Street) and it’s the best Thai food we’ve had in the UK. Very friendly and attentive service. I’ll definitely go back next time we visit.

Windsor Castle dominates the landscape and can be seen from every angle of town. It’s one of Queen Elizabeth’s official residences and is used for state dinners/sleepover for Heads of State. The castle was built by William the Conqueror over 900 years ago. Not only is it the oldest occupied castle in the world, it’s the largest.  It’s impressive with a spectacular chapel, beautiful staterooms and a fascinating collection of artwork, china, furniture, and memorabilia. My favorite were the gifts given to and from Queen Victoria with hand written notes. It’s so obvious how in love she was with Prince Albert, her husband. If you plan to visit the castle, check the website to make sure it’s open to visitors. They close occasionally when the Queen is in residence and if there’s an event happening there.  No photos were allowed in St George’s Chapel or the state apartments but I took plenty outside!

Windsor Castle

Windsor Castle

Windsor Castle Entrance

Windsor Castle V

Windsor Castle IV

Windsor Castle at Dusk

Windsor Castle tour

Windsor Castle Logan at Dusk

I haven’t marked Windsor Castle/Eton College off my “London must see” list just yet since I’d like to go back and take a “Precinct Tour” which the guide discusses the history of the Castle and I’d like to go on a tour of Eton College when it’s open to the public (between March and October). There’s also the Saville Gardens (located in Windsor Great Park) which I’m sure will be a lovely display of flowers.

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When I lived in DC, I met a very nice British couple and when I invited them to a party at our house (a St Patrick’s Day party no less), the husband said “I’ll be in Blighty”.  At the time, I had no idea what Blighty meant and so I googled it.  Turns out it’s the name for Britain which was originally used by British Soldiers stationed in India who were trying to say bilāyatī (meaning Britain).

We’re back in Blighty after our wonderful week in Germany. Germany is so beautiful and what’s not to love: beer, no speed limit on the autobahn, lots of green open spaces, castles, snowy alps, beautiful cities and everything is very clean.  Although my German language skills are lacking, I did remember the most important phrase “Weißwein ~ trocken, bitte”

Having lived in Germany for many years, there are several cultural behaviors I’ve observed that still make me chuckle.  Just as I know people chuckle (or worse) when I commit typical American actions. Germans, for the most part, don’t have a lot of concern for personal space and I have a need for more personal space than most people.  It took me awhile to get use to that aspect of living in Germany.  The other is standing in line ~ not something most Germans do willingly.  I learned early on to guard my spot in line ~ no daylight allowed between me and the person in front of me.  Once I had an older woman in the Aldi store bump me with her grocery cart from behind.  I think she was hoping I’d step out of line so she could jump ahead, but after the third bump, without looking back, I put my foot on the front bottom part of her cart and pushed as hard as I could.  Finally, she stopped bumping me with that blasted cart.

The other day, when we got to the Easy Jet check-in counter at the Munich airport, the desk wasn’t open yet but a line was already forming.  Logan and I left John with the luggage (3 bags) and we went to get juice.  We were gone about 5 minutes and came back to see the desk was open but John was further back in the line than when we left him.  When I asked John what happened, he laughed and said he was too slow moving the bags forward so people just moved in front of him rather than wait until he moved the bags.  Never would that happen in the UK where queueing is an art form and rigidly adhered to ~ if someone dares to jump the line, they’ll no doubt be chastised.

I make these observations, not as a critique of the Germans, but because the customary actions made us feel even more comfortable being back there.  Just as we feel comfortable being back in Blighty where we know what’s the expected behavior.  Or as the saying goes “When in Rome…”

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When we lived in Germany and were flying out of München airport on an early flight, we would opt to stay at the Kempinski Hotel the night before rather than drive the 2 hours prior to a flight.  The hotel still offers their “Park/Sleep/Fly” package starting at €169 for one night, early morning breakfast, parking for 8 days and use of the 24 hour gym/spa/swimming pool. The lobby is very modern as is the rest of the hotel:

Kempinski Munich Hotel

The location of the hotel can’t be beat as it’s between terminals 1 and 2 with the car rental return conveniently located opposite the hotel entrance. Nothing quite like walking out of the hotel lobby to the airline check-in counter in about 5 minutes. We checked in thinking we would have a quiet night in our room but once we found out there was a “Winter Market” going on at the airport, complete with an ice skating rink, Bavarian curling lane, over 50 food/gift market stalls, a live band and glühwein, we headed out to enjoy. Logan and I ate the savory crepes and roasted chestnuts while John searched for the best Bratwurst. The Winter Market was a nice surprise to end our vacation in Germany.

Winter Market

Skating and curling rinks at the Winter Market Munich Airport

At the Winter Market Munchen Airport

It was a wonderful visit to Bavaria and before we knew it, we were packed up and on our way back to London. At the end of a trip, I wish I could snap my fingers and be home. I can’t complain though, our Easy Jet flight was smooth and on-time with the trains between Gatwick and St. Pancras running frequently so we only had a short wait for our train home.

Bye to Germany

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