Archive for the ‘London’ Category

Dennis Severs House

Even though I researched Dennis Severs’ House before going to visit, it wasn’t quite what I expected.  I must be one of the ones he referred to as “pigeonholed styles of intelligence” because I wanted a little more explanation about the rooms and perhaps a little more light (even if it was more candlelight) to see the rooms.  But I’m getting ahead of myself, let me start over…

A group of us expats met at the house at noon. There are very limited hours and days when the house is open to the public. For more information go to the Dennis Severs House website here. No talking or photographs are allowed inside the house.  I took a few photos outside but if you want to see additional indoor photos, click here for a photostream on Flickr.

18 Folgate StreetDennis Severs' House

18 Folgate Street
Dennis Severs’ House

Dennis Severs was an American artist from Escondido, California and he moved to London right after high school.  He was especially enthralled with the Victorian age and, in 1979, purchased a home (circa 1724) in East London, just steps from Spitalfields Market. He lived in the house from 1979 to 1999 and refurbished each of the 10 rooms to reflect the time periods between 1724 and 1914.  One room represents the Enlightenment Age, another the Romantic Age, and so on.  He lived in the house without electricity to better experience what it was like back then. His vision was for a person to feel like they stepped through the canvas of a painting and back in time.  The house is set-up as though the family living there just “popped out” for a minute.  There are food items on the tables, dishes in the sink, laundry hanging, a tea-cup spilled on the floor, etc.  Dennis Severs wanted those visiting to feel, smell, and hear the house.  He was adamant that it wasn’t a museum, but a spiritual experience.

The idea is great and I was so looking forward to it, but the execution proved harder to achieve. Letting yourself get lost in the experience is difficult because the rooms are small and you’re trying to avoid stepping into and in front of the other people.  A better experience would be to have the room to yourself, perhaps sit, and let yourself absorb the sights, sounds and smells.  That would require much better scheduling of visitors on the part of the Spitalfields Trust who owns the property.

I also didn’t like the typed notes found around the rooms which stated “if you’re looking at individual items, you’re not doing it right”.  It was jarring to say the least.  Who wants to be judged when you’re trying to get into the experience.  And who doesn’t look at individual items on display.  When I visit a friend’s home, I always look at their items on the mantel, in the windows and on their walls. Why else would they have them out in the living room?  The motto of the house is “Aut Visum Aut Non!” (You either see it or you don’t) ~ I get the feeling those running the visits don’t care one way or the other.

Would I recommend you go? I give a qualified yes.  Don’t go with any expectations of learning about a certain time period but go for the experience of seeing a “preserved” house and participating in something different.  I may return myself just to see if I get a different experience out of it, now that I know what to expect.

Dennis Severs House 4 stories and a basement

Dennis Severs House
4 stories and a basement

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Old Marylebone Walking Tour

After spending the morning at Camden Market, we were enjoying the outdoors too much to go back to the flat so we met up with London Walks on Oxford Street for a 2 hour tour of Marylebone, our London neighborhood.  We didn’t really meet on Oxford Street which is crazy crowded on a Saturday in December, right before Christmas.  We waited on Stratford Street which is just off Oxford. Here’s what we saw as we peeked out to Oxford Street:

Oxford Street on a Saturday

The tour started off a little rough when the guide asked if there were any Americans on the tour.  He then asked who the 8th president of the US was.  Hmmm… I went through the first six ( Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, John Quincy Adams, ?).  John got Jackson as the 7th and then we couldn’t think of … Van Buren.  Ugh.  I need to study my presidents again ~ if nothing else but for the Pub Quiz.   His reason for asking ~ Van Buren lived on Stratford Place for a short time (1831-1832).

Peter was our walking guide (he’s in the white hat in the photo) and, as with all the other London Walks guides, I was impressed with his ability to tell such detailed stories all from memory (dates, names, locations) without once looking at a reference sheet. A tour of Marylebone wouldn’t be complete without the Wallace Collection and Peter didn’t disappoint.  I’ve written about the Wallace Collection before and it still remains one of my favorite museums in London.  The building was originally called Manchester House, after the 4th Duke of Manchester who had the house built between 1776-1788 because duck hunting was good in the area.  From 1791 to 1795, the house was used as the Spanish Embassy and the side street next to the house is called “Spanish Place.”

Peter our London Walks

Marylebone got its name from the St Mary’s Church and the church was situated on the Tyburn bourne (stream).  If you were to look at a map of Marylebone most of the streets are straight and developed on a grid like pattern. But Marylebone Lane stands out as an exception since that is where the stream flowed. Although the stream in this area is now hidden underground, take a look at the photo below and imagine the road being the stream:

Marylebone Lane  Also along Marylebone Lane, you’ll find shops and restaurants like “The Button Queen” which is dedicated to all things buttons:

If you need a Button

A famous resident from Marylebone is Octavia Hill who was instrumental in helping the poor with better housing and was the co-founder of The National Trust.

Octavia Hill

The house she lived in was next to this narrow Grotto Passage:

Grotto Passage, W1

I especially enjoy walking around Marylebone at night ~ as with most of London, the lights add a certain air of romance and elegance.

Hertford House (Wallace Collection) at night

Hertford House (Wallace Collection) at night

St James Catholic Church at night

St James Catholic Church at night

Durrant Hotel in Marylebone

Durrant Hotel in Marylebone

 

There’s a restaurant in Marylebone called “Odin’s Bistro” which has been in the neighborhood for years. Everytime I walk by the sign I think of the Cromwells, a very nice couple we know from our time in Northern New York.  They recently had a son and his name is Odin.

Odin's

When we first heard we were moving to London, we researched the neighborhoods and got a lot of advice from those already living here.  Many people assumed we would want to be further out in a bigger place with a yard but, we couldn’t be happier with our smaller flat even if it doesn’t have a yard or an extra bedroom. The location is perfect for us, especially since we’re only here for one year.

 

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London: Camden Market

There are several markets that combine to make up Camden Market in London and we started at the Inverness Street Market:

Inverness Street Market in Camden

Camden Market is off of Regents Canal, which was built in the early 1800s and  was instrumental in the development of the market area.  Unfortunately, once shipping became too expensive along the canal (1860s to 1870s), and other forms of transportation were used, the area was in disuse for many years. Thankfully, it was redeveloped in the 1970s and gets approximately 100,000 visitors each weekend.

Camden Lock

Camden Lock (2)

The area in and around Camden Lock was redeveloped into an arts, crafts, clothing and a very yummy food market.   There are tables where you can sit along the canal after grabbing a bite to eat from vendors serving foods from countries such as Peru, India, Jamaica, Thailand, Turkey, Mexico, Spain, Poland, etc.

Regents canal

Getting to the market was half the fun ~ we took a bus and got off at the Camden High Street stop.  The High Street has interesting, creative  artwork on the buildings.

Edgy Shops on Camden High Street

and the Union Jack Boot…

Union Jack High top

There’s a cool comic book store:

Comic book Store

A great place to get Halloween outfits is from the Victorian/Gothic/Pirate clothing store:

Shops on Camden High Street

There’s so much to do in Camden and, even during the day, it has a vibrant, edgy feel to it. The market is open 7 days a week, everyday except Christmas Day, from 10 am to 6 pm but not all vendors are there on the weekdays.  The tube stop is Camden Market but it’s a very busy station on the weekends.  So much so that on Sundays, Camden Market stop is an exit only from 1 to 5 pm.  If you want to catch the tube from Camden Market, it’s a short walk (maybe 10 minutes) to Mornington Crescent.

There is also a beautiful towpath which follows the canal.  From Camden, it goes towards Regents Park/Paddington or toward Kings Cross/Thames.  Originally, the towpath was used by the horses pulling the boats along the canal but now it’s for runner/walkers. There’s also a Regents Canal Museum behind Kings Cross Station.The photo below shows John and Logan on the path under Chalk Farm Road.

Regents Canal near Chalk Farm Road

It was a fun way to spend a Saturday morning and my only regret is we chose a Thai Restaurant on Camden High Street that turned out to be awful. Next time, I’m getting something from the food vendors at the market!

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On this crisp, sunny London day, my friend, Leslie and I snagged a front row seat on the upper level double-decker bus from Oxford Circus to Trafalgar Square.  A fun ride and just like riding the “hop-on, hop-off” bus without the hefty price and chatter. We were on our way to a wonderful art exhibit called “Fourth Plinth: Contemporary Monument” at Institute of Contemporary Arts.

In Trafalgar Square, there are four large plinths (definition of plinth = a block or slab on which a pedestal, column, or statue is placed) and one of the plinths has been empty until as recently as 1999. Since then, the Mayor’s office commissions modern artwork to display on a rotating basis.

Originally, the 4th plinth was supposed to hold the statue of King William IV but it was never installed.  The exhibit showed the model sized version of the artwork which have graced the 4th plinth to include video of Antony Gormley’s “One and Other” in which 2,400 people took turns on top of the plinth for one hour each and they could do whatever they wanted ~ some nakedness was involved.  Also on display are newspaper articles and opinion surveys.   Currently artwork by Elmgreen & Dragset called “Powerless Structures” is on the 4th plinth:

Rocking Boy

I love the Golden Boy and it’s a perfect representation of the “golden time” London is currently enjoying having had the Diamond Jubilee and the very successful Olympics this year. As I’ve researched more about the 4th plinth, it seems there’s a lot of controversy surrounding the idea of using it as a “stage” rather than putting a permanent artpiece there or leaving it empty.  My vote would be to continue the rotating artwork as it certainly has generated interest, reactions and lets everyone be an “art critic.”

Below is a photo of Logan in Trafalgar Square last August when we first arrived.  If you look over her right shoulder, in the far background, you can see the 4th plinth with the Golden Boy on the Rocking Horse.

Trafalgar Square

If you’re interested in visiting the exhibit, here are the pertinent details:

  • Free entrance (£3 suggested donation)
  • On display until 20 January 2013
  • Located at Institute of Contemporary Art, The Mall, London SW1Y 5AH
  • Opening Hours are 11am to 11pm Tuesdays through Sunday
  • There are several speaking events in conjunction with the exhibit, for more information go here

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I’m a HUGE fan of Jane Austen with Pride and Prejudice being my favorite book in her collection. I immediately booked my tickets for Pride and Prejudice at London’s Open Air Theatre in Regent’s Park as soon as I realized the tickets for the 2013 season had gone on sale.  Don’t know how John or Logan will feel about being dragged along ~ I can’t get either of them to watch the Jane Austen movies let alone read one of her novels.  Maybe the stage version will win them over.  Thankfully, they are both usually game to try something new.

The productions slated for 2013 are: To Kill a Mockingbird, The Sound of Musica new stage adaptation of Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice, and Shakespeare’s The Winter’s Tale which has been adapted for children aged six and over.

Regent's Park Fountain

Regent’s Park Fountain

I don’t have an actual photo of the Outdoor Theater having never been to it but the above photo was taken in Regent’s Park last August and I’m keeping my fingers crossed that we’ll have just as beautiful a day during the play because the weather policy is rain or shine, the show will go on.   If you want to see a photo of the actual theater click here.

If you have an interest in seeing a production, click here for more information and to book your tickets!

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London: Pub Quiz and Tennis

Although I feel like I’m on a permanent vacation, listed below are a few thoughts on activities I’ve done that locals might do.  I’ll be sure to pass it on to the next Expat who asks about living in London:

1) Went to a Pub Quiz Night in St Johns Woods last night and had a great time especially catching up with my friend, Leslie. I’ve been to Pub Quiz Night twice and would recommend it as a fun night out.  Some pointers if you’re going to your first Pub Quiz Night:

  • The number one tip for Quiz Night is to have a British person on your team ~ preferably one who knows about Cricket, Rugby, Football (soccer) and British TV/Movies.
  • It’s best to have a team of no more than 4 people.   Any more than four and you spend more time second-guessing answers
  • Know your team members ~ don’t go with a super competitive team if you’re there just for fun
  • It doesn’t matter if your team member has an ivy league degree in quantum physics, they still might know jack about pop music so don’t be intimidated that they know everything even if they act like they do
  • Don’t get there too early or else the beer/glass of wine might muddle your thoughts.  After two glasses of wine, some answers were on the tip of my tongue ~ how could I have forgotten the title of “Jerry McGuire”  when I could remember all the actors in it and have seen it multiple times.  Thankfully someone finally got it!
  • It costs between £1-2 for each player and first place winners split the monies collected (usually).  Some pubs offer a bottle of wine, vouchers, etc.
  • I’ve been to The Warrington in Maida Vale http://www.viewlondon.co.uk/pubsandbars/the-warrington-info-18136.html and to the Lord’s Tavern in St Johns Woods http://www.lords.org/lords-ground/lords-restaurants/lords-tavern/
  • Here’s a list to get you started if you want to partake: http://www.viewlondon.co.uk/pubsandbars/quiz-nights-in-london-pubs-recommended-london-621.html

2) I was thrilled to find a group of ladies who play tennis (doubles) every Wednesday for 2 hours at Westway Sports Center’s indoor courts.  The group didn’t have space for a permanent member but I signed up as a substitute four weeks ago and have already played three times.  I prefer singles but am embracing the challenge of doubles.  Westway also has a climbing wall  for all levels ~ may give the beginners route a try.

Side story: Westway is close to the Latimer Road tube stop and that’s how I usually get there, but after a late night at the Pub Quiz, I decided to catch a cab there to conserve my energy (the Tylenol hadn’t kicked in yet).  The cab driver was taking a longer route than I preferred (cost me an extra £2) so I was getting a bit irritated with him but when I told him to drop me off and I’d walk the 100 meters to the front door (the car couldn’t get any closer), he said “Are you sure? Do you know this area? Do you work here?”  I wasn’t sure why he was asking so many questions but I held up my racquet and said “I play tennis here”  Then he said “I was just checking to make sure it was safe ~ the area looks a little run down from the last time I was here about 6 years ago.”  How kind that he was looking out for a woman alone.  I wanted to say “hmmm, I have a racquet and I’m not afraid to use it” but I just thanked him and hopped out.  As I got to the front door, I turned around and he was still there waiting to make sure I got in safely.

3)  Learned something new about traveling around London.  We get our US mail at West Ruislip which takes about 40 minutes (without tube delays) but I learned you can use your Oyster card (frequent travel card for the tube which you just keep adding money to) on any of the trains within the tube area.  So we hopped on the train at Marylebone station heading for West Ruislip and was there in 15 minutes and it cost the same as the tube!! May even check my mail more than once every 10 days.

4) I love reading blogs/informational websites on London.  Here are my favorites so far:

Those were the highlights of the day-to-day life in London ~ now back to a museum or guided walk.

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Remember, Remember The Fifth of November

The Gunpowder, Treason and Plot

I know of No Reason Why the Gunpowder Treason

Should Ever Be Forgot

Today is Guy Fawkes Day, also known as Bonfire Night. It celebrates the thwarting of the “Gunpowder Plot” which was an attempt to blow up King James I and the House of Lords in 1605.  To learn more about the plot, John and I went on the London Walks: Gunpowder, Treason and Plot: On the Trail of Guy Fawkes.

We got a large dose of history regarding the animosity between the Catholics and the Protestants. Our tour guide, Hilary gave us a balanced overview of the circumstances leading up to the plot. After listening what the Catholics were subjected to, it’s not surprising such a plot was hatched (supposedly in a pub over a beer). 

I did walk away thanking God for living in a country where I’m free to attend whichever religious service I prefer ~ or not attending any services should I choose not to.  Back in the late 1500s and early 1600s, not attending a protestant service resulted in a large fine (which could easily bankrupt a person). Sadly, when the Catholics were in power, you were burned at the stake if you didn’t go to mass.

I learned a lot and was glad I braved the cold and rain to partake in this once a year tour. Here are a few of the photos from the tour:

Cromwell Statue in front of House of Parliament

Westminster Abbey entrance

Horse Guards

Angel on Westminster Abbey

John along the walk

Angel

Westminster Abbey Courtyard

St James Park

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As a huge fan and aficionado of all things Harry Potter, Logan loved The Making of Harry Potter tour.

Our adventure to The Making of Harry Potter began when Logan and I caught the 9:05 am train to Watford Junction then took the studio shuttle bus (£2 RT) to Leavesden where the movie lot is located. The train ride from London takes about 20 minutes. The shuttle bus stop is out the front entrance of the Watford Junction train station and to the left. The shuttle ride was about 15 minutes (including wait time).

Tickets for the tour must be purchased online but can be picked up at will-call if there’s not enough time to receive them in the mail.  Adults are £28 and children (5 to 15) are £21 but I purchased the souvenir book and the audio guide for Logan so her ticket was £30.75.  As you enter the building, there’s a cafe and a Starbucks. Backpacks/large bags are not allowed on the tour so there’s a coat/bag check as well.  At your scheduled time,  you queue up and they let about 40 people in at a time.  I would highly recommend going on the first tour of the day so there’s no one in front of you.  We were on the 10:30  tour and it was crowded overrun with kids on bus tours. Give yourself about three hours for the tour.

A brief (maybe 5 minutes) movie is shown with Daniel, Emma and Rupert explaining what it was like on set as well as what to expect during the tour. I liked that they acknowledged the thousands of cast and crew, from the hair & make-up crew to the other actors. It was heartfelt and, since it was such a large part of their formative years, it was probably a good way to end their time at “Hogwarts.”   If you go, sit in the front row so you’ll be the first one into the Great Hall and have your camera ready. You’ll be able to take a photo without anyone else in it ~ as long as you’re fast!

Once the movie ends, the screen lifts to reveal the gates into the Hogwarts’ Great Hall

The actual jersey Rob Pattinson wore:

They only let one group at a time into the Great Hall so you’ll only have about 5-10 minutes to look around and take photos before they shoo you out.

Then it’s onto the “museum” with all the original costumes, props, sets, etc. The sets include Gryffindor Common Room, the boys dorm room, Hagrid’s Hut, Dumbledore’s office, the Potions room and parts of the vast Ministry of Magic (including Voldemort’s Magic is Might statue).

There was so much to see and Logan took a little longer since she had the audio guide.  I sat and relaxed on the bench with the other “older folks” but I throughly enjoyed watching the younger kids eyes light up when they saw an item they recognized.

Scary Death Eaters…

Death Eaters Masks

Ron’s bed

Dealthy Hallows costumes

There was also a small outside lot including the Weasley car, the bridge, Privet Drive and the house in Godric’s Hallow

Half way through the tour, there’s a green screen photo session where you can ride either in the Weasley car

…and flying through London on a broom

A fitting end to the tour is the room with shelves with thousands wand boxes (a la Olivander’s Wand Shop) with the name of a cast or crew member on each box ~ a “credits” roll.  Really a nice touch and nod to all those involved in making the magic happen.

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Something Along the Way…

When in London, it’s best to factor in extra time when venturing out because, more often than not, there’s a place along the way that’s just as interesting as your final destination. Since John was knee-deep in homework yesterday, Logan and I decided to leave him to study hard while we checked out a pop-up store located on Brick Lane in East London ~ the pop-up, American Apparel Factory Outlet, will be open until 14 October.

Due to the repairs and closures of several tube lines, it was a challenge getting to Liverpool Station, but once we emerged from the station and headed toward Brick Lane, we could feel the change in the atmosphere.  East London is historic, culturally diverse and, as Logan would say, “so hipster.”

After purchasing a few items at American Apparel, we headed over to Old Spitalfields Market for more shopping and lunch. Spitalfields is derived from St Mary’s Spital (Spital is the old world name for a Hospital).

The market is huge with many vendors but it’s not a farmers market, it’s a flea market as well as having permanent restaurants and shops. Since it was lunchtime, we opted for food ~ Logan had a freshly squeezed strawberry/orange juice (so yummy) and then we found “Rainforest Creations” ~ an all-vegan food stall. Very yummy, very healthy. Next time, we’ll indulge and visit the Curry Capital:

We plan on returning soon, and on a Saturday, to explore more of the clothes stalls ~ which include vintage, homemade and designer clothes.  The stock varies weekly so there’s always something new to see (& buy). On the following dates, affordable art work is for sale:

11 – 14 October
01  – 04 November
22  – 25 November
29 November – 02 December
06 – 09 December
13 – 16 December
20 – 23 December

I’m so glad we ventured into East London but realize we’ve only grazed the surface.  I’m already planning a return trip…

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Wigmore Hall

We attended a concert at Wigmore Hall last night.

It featured Rosalind Ventris (Viola) and Lara-Dodds Eden (Piano).  Just the two of them.  They played a new work  from Edwin Roxburgh and last night was the world premiere.  Personally, I thought it sounded like a soundtrack to a scary 60’s thriller ~ it was very edgy with lots of high-pitched, dark (dare I say creepy) notes on the viola and pounding of the keys on the piano. Logan loved it!  As a viola player herself, her perspective is a lot different from mine. She appreciates the technical aspect of the music.  The other three pieces were Schumann (Marchenbilder Op 113), Hindemith (Viola Sonata Op 11 No.4 and Rachmaninov (Cello Sonata in G Minor Op. 19 arr. Vadim Borisovsky).  All traditional and soothing to my senses.

Wigmore Hall was built in 1901, in Renaissance style (using alabaster and marble for the walls, flooring and stairway). The original owners were the German Piano company Bechstein. It was next door to their piano showrooms and was built for recitals. During WWI, and with hostility toward German companies, the entire Bechstein company was sold to Debenhams for a song (pun intended).

Today, there are concerts daily ~ some in the evening but also ones in the mornings and afternoons. I’ve been pouring over the October and November schedules to see which ones I’d like to attend next.  Logan has already picked out the Bach Cello Suites concert. If you go, there is a bar and restaurant so it’s a nice place to meet up with friends and have a drink or a bite to eat prior to the concert.

They also have learning events which reach out to young children with interactive music workshops such as the “Toddler Bop” for 1 -2 year olds, family days for 6+ year olds and “For Crying Out Loud” for up to one year olds. How fun is that…wish I’d had something like this to take Logan to when she was so young.  I did play classical music for her as much as possible. At first, I didn’t think it made a difference but then I noticed she cried whenever I played Tchaikovsky but was happy as could be with Bach and Beethoven.  That’s when I was convinced babies truly are sponges and everything in their environment affects them.

This gem of a place, located in Marylebone near the Bond Street tube station, is about four blocks from our flat. Have I mentioned how much I love the location of our new home?!  If you’re a chamber music fan, check out the schedule of upcoming concerts, you won’t be disappointed!

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