Posts Tagged ‘Scotland’

Scotland: Soup of the Day

You know you’re in Scotland when:

Highland Scotch Broth

and you see a lot of this…

Highlands Sheep II

Highland Sheep

Highland Sheep on the road

Highland Lambs on the road sign

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This was our second visit to the small but lively town of St. Andrews, UK. There were a lot more golfers around town as opposed to our wintry visit last year. We stayed at “Ogstons on North Street.” A quaint B&B right in the center of town. Very convenient and a delicious breakfast was available each morning. We also had dinner at the inn one evening – yummy!

We visited St Andrews Cathedral and the Castle ruins. It’s interesting just to wander around and read the historic sign posts. Imagining what it must have been like when it was all one building. Must have been spectacular. We especially liked the view from the top of St Rule’s Tower ~ located next to the Cathedral area. A token from the Cathedral visitor’s center is required. We climbed the 500+ stairs to the top and were afforded a nice panoramic view of St. Andrews.

St Rule's Tower looking up
St Rule’s Tower ~ looking up

St Andrews St Rule's Tower View
View from St Rule’s Tower

The Cathedral ruins are quite impressive and it’s easy to imagine the scale of the building when standing close to the main altar area. It was founded in 1160 but not consecrated until 1318. It was a pilgrimage center until 1559 when it was destroyed during the reformation.

St Andrews Cathedral ruins
St. Andrews Cathedral

St. Andrews Castle was founded in the early 1200s and sits along the coastline. It is mostly ruins but you still get a sense of what it must have been like back in the 1400-1500s.

St Andrews Castle Grounds III
St Andrews Castle grounds

The most eerie part of the castle for me was the hideous “Bottle Dungeon” – prisoners were lowered into an unlit well. Truly, there was no escape possible and I can only imagine the terror they must have felt.

St Andrews Castle Bottle Dungeon

St ANdrews Castle Bottleneck prison cell
Bottle Dungeon

There are also tunnels below the castle. These were built by reformers who killed the Bishop and captured the castle. Their attackers also built a tunnel. It was interesting to go underneath the castle but, again, an eerie adventure.

St ANdrews Castle Tunnel
St Andrews Castle Tunnel

St Andrews Castle Logan
Castle Grounds

St Andrews Castle indoors
Inside the Castle

St Andrews Castle grounds
Castle Steps

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Isle of May is an interesting Nature Reserve and an easy day trip from St Andrews. More to come on the details of our wonderful outing but for now feast your eyes on my favorite birds, the Puffin.

The Clowns of the Bird World…

Isle of May puffins in flight

Isle of May Puffin with tracker

Isle of May Puffin with Fish

Isle of May puffin in flight
One of these is not like the others!

Isle of May puffin in flight IV

Isle of May puffin in flight II

All photos are by me ~ it took me a while to figure out how to catch them in flight since they are FAST flyers. I smiled the entire time we were watching these fun creatures. And will definitely go back when we’re in the area again.

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After a filling breakfast at Premier Inn (included in the room rate), we decided to visit Holyrood Park and hike to the top of Arthur’s Seat. We chose the steeper ascent. For some reason, I thought it would be a faster route but not so much. Just before the summit it becomes a bit steep and very rocky so good walking shoes are a must. We saw a few people in sandals struggling not to slip on the rocks. I’m certainly feeling it in my legs this evening. At 251 meters (823.5 feet) high, we were rewarded with a beautiful view from the top!

Edinburgh the hike up Arthur's Seat
Along the trail to Arthur’s Seat

Edinburgh Arthur's seat almost to the tip top
Almost to the top!

Edinburgh Ruins of St Anthony's chapel
Ruins of St Anthony’s Chapel, Holyrood Park

Top of Arthur's Seat
Made it to the top

View from Arthur's Seat
View from the top of Arthur’s Seat

And because I still can’t get over the view from our room in Edinburgh, here’s one at sunset

Edinburgh Sunset on the castle

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I’m so excited to be in Scotland again! My last two visits (November and March) were both bone-chillingly cold. As cold as it was, I still loved being in Scotland and now even more since it’s warm and sunny!

When I booked our flight, I searched extensively for the cheapest fare with the best flight times. Ended up booking a flight on Aer Lingus which flew from Dulles (Virginia) to Dublin then on to Edinburgh. It was the Red Eye flight (we ended up taking off at 10:40pm). Luckily, we had tailwinds and the flight was only 6.5 hours! From Dublin to Edinburgh it was a little under an hour.

I’m traveling with my husband and daughter. We have different ideas of how to get “on local time.” I have to take a nap for an hour or two while they force themselves to stay awake. While I napped, they went to the top of the Scott Monument (which we did while here in March)

Edinburgh View from the Scott Monument
View from the top of the Scott Monument

Edinburgh View from our hotel room at the Premier Inn
The view from our room at Premier Inn on Princes Street, Edinburgh

Edinburgh New Tram to city center

Edinburgh on the tram
On the newly opened tram from the Edinburgh Airport to City Center

Edinburgh on Chalotte Square
Charlotte Square buildings, Edinburgh, Scotland

I’m so thrilled with the view from our room but it makes me want to just hang out and stare at it but we’re heading out to hike “Arthur’s Seat” and then to lunch with a friend who lives locally. Did I mention I’m thrilled to be here!!

Edinburg view from the room at sunset

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We visited both the City Chambers and the Glasgow Cathedral (St Mungo’s). Very beautiful buildings…

WW I & II Memorial "Pro Patria" Glasgow CIty Hall

WW I & II Memorial “Pro Patria” Glasgow CIty Chambers

Marble Staircase in City Hall, Glasgow

Marble Staircase in City Chambers, Glasgow

Marble Staircase in City Hall, Glasgow

Marble Staircase in City Chambers, Glasgow

Guard Statues in City Hall, Glasgow

Guard Statues in City Chambers, Glasgow

Doorway in City Hall, Glasgow

Doorway in City Chambers, Glasgow

The Glasgow City Chambers sits on one end of George Square and is a very impressive building complete with mosaic tiles, marble and beautiful artwork. It was built in 1888 and is the headquarters building for the councils serving the City of Glasgow. Glasgow’s twin cities are: Dalian (China), Nuremberg (Germany), Turin (Italy), Rostove-on-Don (Russia), Havana (Cuba), Lahore (Pakistan), Marseille (France) and Bethlehem (Palestine).

Glasgow Cathdral, St Mungos

Glasgow cathedral, St Mungo’s

Original Door of the Glasgow Cathdral

Original Door of the Glasgow cathedral

Glasgow Cathedral Necropolis

Glasgow Cathedral Necropolis

Glasgow Cathedral Necropolis

Glasgow Cathedral Necropolis

Queen's Chair in the Cathedral

Queen’s Chair in the Cathedral

Stairs leading to the higher graves, Glasgow Cathedral

Stairs leading to the higher graves, Glasgow Cathedral

Stained Glass, Glasgow Cathedral

Stained Glass, Glasgow Cathedral

Example of a Memorial inside the Galsgow Cathedral

Example of a Memorial inside the Galsgow Cathedral

Most of the Glasgow Cathedral dates from the 15th century although most of the gorgeous stained glass windows are more current. It’s the only medieval Cathedral on the Scottish Mainland to survive the reformation. As we traveled through Scotland on this trip, we saw many ruins of Catherdrals/Churches which were destroyed during the reformation and the period of Henry VIII.  Good on the Glaswegians for their superior defensive strength during those difficult and destructive times.

The Gothic architecture of the Cathedral is dark and imposing. Inside the Cathedral, there are hundreds of memorials to soldiers from the wars throughout the years. Just outside the Cathedral is a Necropolis which is filled with eleborate tombs from wealthy industrialist from the Victorian age. It was fascinating (hopefully not too morbid) to read the inscriptions.

Glasgow St Mungos
Royal Highland Fusiliers Memorial

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Since I love the musical Mama Mia, I couldn’t help but think of the Super Trouper lyrics “When I called you last night from Glasgow, all I do is eat and sleep and sing …”

Glasgow is the largest city in Scotland and it has the most hipster people we’ve seen so far. London and Edinburgh can boast very elegantly styled businessmen and women, but the style in Glasgow is definitely more avant-garde. Some of the styles bordered on Jerseylicious (way too much makeup and big hair) but mostly the styles seemed fresh and fun. I took a few “stalker” photos

Fun Socks, Glasgow

Fun Socks, Glasgow

Collar up, Stylish Stores in Glasgow

Collar up, Stylish Shoes in Glasgow

Glasgow Fashion Window

Glasgow Fashion Window

We didn’t hit up the bar scene nor did we check out the guidebook’s promise of  hedonistic clubs but we can attest that the restaurants we ate at are fun, funky and top-notch. On the first night we ate a delicious Mediterranean meal at “Brutti Ma Buoni”  ~ very friendly staff made for a happy place to have dinner. The second day we went to a vegan restaurant called “Mono” ~ fabulous food right down to the non-cheese cheesecake. There was a performing Arts Group called “Buzzcut” which was part of their 2nd Annual Arts Festival. Another indication of Glasgow’s vibrant and energetic music and arts scene.

Mono Restaurant ~ Delicious Vegan options!

Mono Restaurant ~ Delicious Vegan options!

Greek Salad and Hummus at Mono Restaurant, Glasgow

Greek Salad and Hummus at Mono Restaurant, Glasgow

Stir Fry at Mono Restaurant. SO DELICIOUS!

Stir Fry at Mono Restaurant. SO DELICIOUS!

One of Many Statues througout Glasgow

One of Many Statues througout Glasgow

Straight, No Chaser

Straight, No Chaser

Glasgow Phone Booth ~ Dr.Who?

Glasgow Phone Booth ~ Dr.Who?

Archway to City Hall, Glasgow

Archway to City Hall, Glasgow

Gallery of Modern Art

Gallery of Modern Art ~ don’t know why there’s a safety cone on the statue but seems appropriate in front of the Modern Art Gallery

Gallery Of Modern Art at Night

Gallery Of Modern Art at Night

There’s a lot to do in Glasgow but since we only had one full day, we opted for the Glasgow Cathedral and the Beautiful City Hall which I’ll post next…

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Morning Snow in Inverness

Morning Snow in Inverness

We finally decided if we’re going to be on vacation during record cold temperatures, we should “embrace the suck snow” and appreciate the beauty of winter. As we drove from Inverness to Glasgow, we took a detour to the Nevis Mountain Range  The Nevis Mountain Range has the tallest mountain in the UK: Ben Nevis. After taking a cable car to the top, we hiked even higher. Basically, we were saying “bring it on Mother Nature, we can handle the I’m-so-cold-my-eyes-are-watering-from-the-wind-and-then-freezing-on-my-cheeks cold.”

Driving along Loch Ness

Driving along Loch Ness

Heading Toward the Nevis Range

Heading Toward the Nevis Range

Nevis Range Cable Car

Nevis Range Cable Car

Cable Car Looking Back

Cable Car Looking Down the Mountain

Reaching the snow line

Reaching the snow line

Squrr Finnisg-aig View Point 663m (2,175 ft)

Squrr Finnisg-aig View Point 663m (2,175 ft)

BLUE SKY!

BLUE SKY!

Snow Boarder

Snow Boarder

Looking Back at Nevis Range Mountain Resort Ski Hut
Looking Back at Nevis Range Mountain Resort Ski Hut

We're Still Smiling ~ frozen but smiling

We’re Still Smiling ~ frozen but smiling

Highland Cattle

Highland Cattle

Bridge

Bridge

Glen Coe (about half way between Inverness and Glasgow

Glen Coe (about half way between Inverness and Glasgow

Loch Lamond

Loch Lamond

Beautiful Loch Lomond

Beautiful Loch Lomond

It’s a beautiful drive from Inverness to Glasgow. It took us about six hours including the cable car stop and another 45 minute stop for lunch. If you’re driving slowly, there are plenty of “pull over and park” places so other cars can get by. We wanted to enjoy the beauty of the area so we took our time.

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…statue!!!

With the Nessie Statue

With the Nessie Statue

Traveling with John requires a detour every now and then to check out the myths, legends or just plain tacky places of the world such as Roswell, Graceland, The Largest Ball of Twine and now…The Search for Nessie, the Loch Ness Monster. We took the Jacobite Tours which included a boat ride on Loch Ness with stops at Urquhart Castle  and the Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition. The Centre helps debunk the myth of Nessie ~ and the exhibition includes original equipment used over the years in the search for the creature. It ended up being a great tour! Our guide, Kenny, was professional and a wealth of knowledge regarding the history of the area. He spoke about the ties of famous Americans to Scotland including Generals Grant & Lee. Nothing tacky about this tour or the area!

Urquhart Castle viewd from Loch Ness

Urquhart Castle viewed from Loch Ness

Urquhart Cstle Ruins

Urquhart Castle Ruins

Urquhart Castle Spy Holes to the Loch

Urquhart Castle Spy Holes to the Loch

The Gorgeous Grounds of Urquhart Castle

The Gorgeous Grounds of Urquhart Castle

Gatehouse at Urquhart Castle

Gatehouse at Urquhart Castle

Urquhart Castle Cellar

Urquhart Castle Cellar

Despite it being the slow season, not to mention freezing cold and snowing, it was a full tour with about 20 Korean visitors, 3 Danish backpackers, several Brits and another American from Berkeley (she said she was from San Francisco but I’m pretty sure she was from across the bridge). I can’t imagine what it must be like in the summer with all the crowds. I’m so glad we braved the elements and visited during the off-season.

It was interesting to listen to the tales from the Danish backpackers since they came in the day before from Glasgow, our next stop. Much as we hate to say goodbye to beautiful Inverness, it’s time to head south…

Another View from Our Room at Strathness House ~ loved it!

Another View from Our Room at Strathness House ~ loved it!

Thank Goodness for the English Translation

Thank Goodness for the English Translation

Ness River

Ness River

Strathness House and the Church

Strathness House and the Church

Strathness House Hotel

Strathness House Hotel

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Inverness is the furthest north I’ve ever been! Would love to go even farther north into the Shetland Islands but will have to save that for another trip. On our drive to Inverness, we stopped at Blair Castle which just happened to re-open that very day for the spring/summer season. We were cheerfully welcomed by a staff member and then greeted in the parking lot by a friendly, beautiful peacock.

Greeted by a Peacock at Blair Castle

Greeted by a Peacock at Blair Castle

Blair Castle sits on 108 square miles. The grounds are gorgeous with lots of grazing sheep. It’s the seat of the Duke of Atholl of the Murray Clan. The 12th Duke of Atholl actually lives in South Africa but he visits the castle every May to review the Atholl Highlanders, the only private Army in Britain. The castle tower dates back to 1269 but most of the castle has undergone lots of remodeling throughout the years. It was very interesting to visit the 30 rooms. Each room gives another layer of written history but I have to admit I’ve become spoiled and would prefer audio guides for such a large building.  There’s just so much information to cover over 744 years.

Blair Castle under restoration.

Blair Castle under restoration.

Blair Castle Clock Tower

Blair Castle Clock Tower

Blair River on the Blair Castle Grounds

Blair River on the Blair Castle Grounds

Sheep on the Blair Castle grounds

Sheep on the Blair Castle grounds

Blair Castle Ballroom

Blair Castle Ballroom

As we drove into Inverness and to our hotel, we knew we were someplace special. Inverness is a charming town and our hotel was ideally situated along the Ness River. We got in early enough to wander around the river bank and into town. Thankfully the weather was clear. Cold but clear. We were also treated to a beautiful full moon.

View from River of Inverness Castle

View from River of Inverness Castle

Along the Ness River at night

Along the Ness River at night

Inverness Castle Tower
Inverness Castle Tower

Full Moon over Inverness

Full Moon over Inverness

Thank goodness for Tripadvisor reviews leading me to The Strathness House which is an affordable hotel with great service and even better views. They only have 12 rooms and only 8 have views so if you go, book early.

Strathness House, Inverness

Strathness House, Inverness

View from Room at Strathness House, Inverness

View from Room at Strathness House, Inverness

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